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running on three cylinders?

Posted: 23 Jul 2007, 22:07
by dave friday
yep! the auxilary water pump blew apart and i had to drive quite a way with the water gauge on max[and the low water light flashing]to get of the motorway.i got it grua'd[spanish recovery lorry] home,i recon the head gasket has gone and maybe the head is warped but no water is coming out of the exhaust pipe,will fill up with water tomorrow and see what happens.
so check your auxilary water pump!!

Posted: 25 Jul 2007, 05:05
by dave friday
so,filled up with water and.... yep water splashing out of exaust pipe and running on three cylinders!!.iv'e been told of a place that does head machining anyone know what's the maximum that can taken off the head?
ta.

Posted: 25 Jul 2007, 17:59
by dave friday
next bit, have taken cylinder head off, cylinder number2 has a bit of water in it[2table spoons full] number3 was full! other 2 dry.the camshaft has what looks like copper splatters on3 of the lobes and the shims look like they've taken a beating.
any advice or comments?

Posted: 26 Jul 2007, 07:04
by dave friday
i realy would like some help/comments,where to get parts[cylinder head big end bolts etc] its a bit of a problem here in spain,so Baxter,harry mann and co what to do?.
ta.

Posted: 26 Jul 2007, 08:22
by peasant
I'm by no means a diesel expert, but once your engine had to compress water, it's usually somewhat beyond repair.

You might be better off looking for new complete engine, rather than messing with the head only to find that something else is broken as well later on.

Posted: 26 Jul 2007, 08:48
by dave friday
cheers Peasant,my problem is makeing my mind up,i realy need to do a proper overhaul [big ends piston rings etc] then there's the problem of getting parts...and i'm in spain.the water could have got into the cylinders when i pulled the head off.

Posted: 26 Jul 2007, 09:02
by HarryMann
Pull a 1Y or AAZ out of a SEAT at a scrapyard might be best...

Then you can rest easy looking at yours in more detail, find out how much damage has been done?

Have you looked careflly at the head for cracks between the valve seats, from the pre-chambers to the valve seats. Run a straightedge along it to see distortion..

Some say they can't be skimmed (VW), some say they can...

What do the Inj Pump side of the pistons look like, a bit eate away at the edges. Cleaned the bores up and looked for scores? Much of a lip at top? Pistons rock in bores when pushed hard side to side?

Where is that copper or bronze coming from?

Hereis a list of stretch bolts that are normally (advised) replaced by new ones when rebuilding...

http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Parts_-_Part_Nos

Good luck but might be worth as I say, just putting a known good one from a scrapyard in for now...

Posted: 26 Jul 2007, 11:01
by dave friday
thanks harrymann,i've got a local mechanic to get an engine.
will see what happens!

Posted: 27 Jul 2007, 17:04
by dave friday
pulled the sump off and had alook at no 1 bearing cap and journel seem ok, no2 ok, no3 has two scratches[cap]journel has very slight scratch.can main bearings be replaced with crank in place?.i havent seen the sourse of the copper yet, will pull a piston tomorrow, maybe little end bearing is on it's way out?.
hasta manana.

Posted: 27 Jul 2007, 20:33
by HarryMann
You can change the big ends, and some of the mains, but not sure if you can get the rear main bearing out... use the old shell to push the new one around behind the crank journal, non-tagged end leading of course..

Do them one by one, nipping them up but not torqueing of course till they're all done.

Posted: 28 Jul 2007, 17:25
by dave friday
hmm! today i reconised the copper stuff that i was worried about in a block bolt hole,rust!.there was some mayonase on the under side of the plastic cam cover, the rust must have come from that.i pulled a piston out and had a look at the top ring, 2.37mm gap[wear limit 1mm].the piston and bore seem ok,no sign of over heating minor scratches but no grooves.
will have a think about it untill monday.

Posted: 28 Jul 2007, 18:08
by orcecaveman
Dave, im coming down to Orce, in a van in October, bit of a way off I know, but might be able to bring down a few bits and bobs if its any help. Ill be retuning to the UK with an empty van, so if thats any good give me a shout.

Posted: 28 Jul 2007, 19:02
by dave friday
Dave, thanks will keep it in mind.

Posted: 28 Jul 2007, 20:21
by HarryMann
had a look at the top ring, 2.37mm gap[wear limit 1mm].

Dave, are you interpreting this correctly, not sure ... ?

Ring Gap
Top Ring 1Y, AAZ New (.2~.4mm); Limit 1.2mm

This is with ring pushed down to about 15mm from bottom of bore (unworn part)... 2.37mm is miles out

Posted: 28 Jul 2007, 22:40
by dave friday
Harry, yes i did it at the top of the bore,its a bit tricky do'in it at the bottom with the crankshaft in the way,will try tomorrow.it's just occured to me that i can use the piston ring to check bore wear!.
i did a barels and pistons on a1984cc air cooled[after 95000mls] and was suprised how big the gap was[piston ring].