Club 80-90 Forums

Hello!!!!!

I've got a leak which seems to be coming from the clutch slave cylinder. I've only had a feel around so far and not had a proper look yet (some bas***d stole my axel stands ).

Whats this likely to be?

Will I need to replace or repair the cylinder?

And how difficult is it? (I'm only a 2 spanner kind of a guy ).

p.s. its a 1986 DG

It's not difficult to replace ...just messy.

as for repair....I've not done that...don't know if VW do a repair kit.....anyone else?

they are only £23 from ebay so not really worth repairing

£32 from GSF for FAG clamp the clutch supply pipe that comes off the brake reservoir under the dash. Its the horizontal pipe on the right hand side, to minimise fluid losses. lots of penetrating oil on the union and good brake spanners to disconnect it and go EASY!

check to see if you have a plastic pipe going into the slave cylinder or the steel pipe, if you need a replacement plastic pipe have a search on here as the part number is an upgrade of what is offered in haynes and GSF, JustKampers, EuroCarParts do not stock it you have to buy it directly from VW. @ about £15.. I say "have to" that is only if you have to cut through it because it has seized onto the slave cylinder which is a common problem.

I would not bother with the seal repair kit for the sake of an extra £20.

Thanks guys.

and even if you do cut it you have to try and disconnect the up stream union inspect it first one end might be might be easier than the other.

BUM!!!!!!

I've spent the whole day so far trying to replace the slave sylinder. Everything was seized with rust. I used PINTS of penetrating fluid to release the mounting nuts, but could not undo the plastic flexi hose from the cylinder. So I cut the ba****d.

Once I got the old cylinder off I as able to finally remove what was left of the old flexi hose and the little connector thing that connects the pipe to the cylinder.

So, now I have a cut plastic pipe and new cylinder. Can I connect them together with the little connectory thing? Or do I need to buy a new hose?

If I have to get a new hose, is it this? http://shop.justkampers.com/product_inf ... ts_id/9539

I would like to go with what I've got, but I'll be buggered if I can get the little connectory thing to fit back in the plastic hose.

Any suggestions?

The hose you show is the flexi hose from chassis to gearbox, is this the one you cut?

Is your plastic pipe the full length from master to slave cylinder, or just a short piece from this hose to cylinder?

If it is the short piece, make up a new metal pipe from this hose to the cylinder...I seem to remember it being a 1/4" (or metric equivalent). If you cant make your own, these can be obtained at very little cost from Simon Baxter (brickwerks).

The slave cylinder nuts are a bit of a pig, but if you have access to a welder, weld the nuts, or the bolts onto the underside of the mounting bracket before you attempt to refit the cylinder. It makes re-fitting a piece of cake.

Tex Ritter

Hi Tex

Sorry for the confusion. I now know that the JK part I mentioned above is not the correct thing.

The pipe I cut (and need to replace) is a flexi plastic pipe going from slave cylinder to chassis. It doesn't look JK do them. I've asked GSF and they don't. Whenever I order anything from my local VW garage, they seem to delight in giving me the wrong parts (ba****ds!!!!!). So I need to get hold of the correct VW part number before I visit the garage.

Alternatively, is there anyway I can reuse what I already have by reconnecting the connector (that attaches to the slave) to the newly cut plastic pipe. Obviously it won't be a simple matter of pushing it in, but is there some way of doing it?

FlowerPower wrote:Hi Tex

Sorry for the confusion. I now know that the JK part I mentioned above is not the correct thing.

Alternatively, is there anyway I can reuse what I already have by reconnecting the connector (that attaches to the slave) to the newly cut plastic pipe. Obviously it won't be a simple matter of pushing it in, but is there some way of doing it?

Over many years working on HGV vehicles high pressure air lines, we found that the plastic pipe had to be held lengthwise in a vice - we often used a non-fixed vice that could be taken under the wagon - leaving about a 2" of pipe overhang, you then have to literally 'hammer' the fitting back into the pipe (it may help to give the fitting a slight taper where it goes into the pipe to start it off) make sure you use just enough pressure on the vice to stop the pipe moving, but not enough to crush/damage the pipe.

If it is an angled union, try holding it between 2 pieces of wood with mole grips to get a better belt at it.

HGV air lines work at about 150 psi, using the method described I can honestly say we never had one union blow off or leak. The clutch pipe uses relatively low pressure in comparison and I'm sure you'll get away with refitting the union.

Tex Ritter

Cheers Tex, I'll give that a go tomorrow morning. When you say to give it a slight taper, how would you suggest I did that?

FlowerPower wrote:Cheers Tex, I'll give that a go tomorrow morning. When you say to give it a slight taper, how would you suggest I did that?

What does the union/fitting look like?

When I say give it a slight taper, perhaps I should have said chamfer, I mean to give the union bit a slight chamfer where it enters the plastic pipe, so that when you start to knock it in it does not bunch or cut the pipe up.

You could use a file if you dont have a grinder, but it only needs to be a slight chamfer.

Tex Ritter

WooooooHoooooooo!!!! I'm back on the road again!!!!

Thanks for your help guys.

I thought I would just add a couple of tips for people searching under this subject in the future:

If you do need to cut the plastic pipe carrying the hydraulic fluid (because its rusted tight shut at the slave cylinder end), cut it as close as possible to the end. Once you've got it all off the van, it will be easier to remove the connector from the old cylinder. Once its off, as Tex says, you can reconnect it to the plastic pipe by hammering it in. I opened the inside of the pipe slightly by scraping the inside with one blade from a pair of scissors (just far enough to allow the connector to start to become seated) and then smacked it with a hammer while holding the pipe with a wrench.

The bolts fastening the cylinder into place are a pain. Its difficult to get a spanner in place to hold the one nearest the engine, which you need to do in order to turn the nut at the top. So, I cut a groove in the end of the bolt with a hacksaw and was then able to hold the bolt steady with a flat blade screwdriver while I tightened the bolt.

Hammers and hacksaws!!! Yeah baby!!!!!!