Club 80-90 Forums

Will a Weber 32/36 Carburettor Kit fit a 2.0l a/c engine?

yep but it will strangle it. and weber 34icts arent much better.
these are no use for the cu motor. either get your solexs rebuilt by someone like
www.gasure.co.uk
or as myself and a few others here have , stick a pair of delorto drla 36 or 40 mm carbs on it. not much more money but MORE power and INCREASED fuel economy!!!
for advice on that contact
www.raceshack.co.uk
cheers jase

To be honest, I would just get your twin Solex 34 PDSIT-2 and -3 carburettors profesionally rebuilt. The result would be far better than buying a brand new carburettor and it would work correctly with the 2.0 litre CU Aircooled engine.

The most common problem with Solex carburettors are air leaks that go through the throttle spindle bushes usually caused by wear.

I got Gower and Lee (based in Bushey Heath, Watford) to recondition my 1300 Beetle's Solex 28 Pict-2 carburettor and it cost me about £110 + VAT. I think other people on here also know of a few places where to get careburettors profesionally rebuilt.

[quote]
yep but it will strangle it. and weber 34icts arent much better.
these are no use for the cu motor. either get your solexs rebuilt by someone like

Sorry to dissagree with your reply, but I ran a Weber 32 - 36 conversion kit from Street - Style an Power, for 2 years, ok they are originaly a kit for the Later engined Type 2, But will fit the T25 straight out of the box and work no technical setup required a couple of teething problems at first (1) you have to order a thin pancake air filter (you do have a choice or they will send you standard size pancake filter) this gives you clearance when engine lid fits no mods or holes cut in the lid.
(2) the T25 Distributor is different from the Type 2, The Distributor on the T25 centrifugal advance & retard has 2 connections, The Weber carb is manufactured with advance only, you have to either block off the retard side or leave it open and find out by trial and error which ever suits your engine perforfance mine ran better with the retard pipe blocked

and if you go down the path as to have your twin Solex carbs professionaly serviced and rebuilt your talking £300 to £400 quid, as i came across a vw carb specialist at Tatton Park 3 years ago and thats what he wanted then, cheaper to go for a Weber kit. I used to return around 25-28 mpg depending if you had your slippers on.

Grumpy Midget wrote:

yep but it will strangle it. and weber 34icts arent much better.
these are no use for the cu motor. either get your solexs rebuilt by someone like

Sorry to dissagree with your reply, but I ran a Weber 32 - 36 conversion kit from Street - Style an Power, for 2 years, ok they are originaly a kit for the Later engined Type 2, But will fit the T25 straight out of the box and work no technical setup required a couple of teething problems at first (1) you have to order a thin pancake air filter (you do have a choice or they will send you standard size pancake filter) this gives you clearance when engine lid fits no mods or holes cut in the lid.
(2) the T25 Distributor is different from the Type 2, The Distributor on the T25 centrifugal advance & retard has 2 connections, The Weber carb is manufactured with advance only, you have to either block off the retard side or leave it open and find out by trial and error which ever suits your engine perforfance mine ran better with the retard pipe blocked

and if you go down the path as to have your twin Solex carbs professionaly serviced and rebuilt your talking £300 to £400 quid, as i came across a vw carb specialist at Tatton Park 3 years ago and thats what he wanted then, cheaper to go for a Weber kit. I used to return around 25-28 mpg depending if you had your slippers on.

Quite a few people misunderstand what the two vacuum ports on the stock type 2 T3 (2.0 litre) distributor actually do.

They are both vacuum advance ports, one cuts in later than the other one and the purpose of those is to ensure smoother engine running throughout the rev range (the larger vacuum pipe cuts in later than the thin one).

Hence they are usually referred to as DVDA (dual vacuum distributor advance).

Personally I tend to try to go for the stock setup whenever possible, I have tried using different carburettors with my 1300 beetle and none of those combinations were really successful.

Altough I haven't had any problems with my type 2 T3's twin solex carburettors, I have had several problems with my 1300 beetle when I tried non-stock carburettor/SVDA and 009 distributor combinations (in this case they were Brosol's junk H30/31 carburettor and Solex's 30 Pict-2 which are also not suited to the 1600 twinport engine). These were mainly carburettor icing, automatic choke working incorrectly and dangerous flat-spots (009 related).

After I had reverted to the stock setup on my 1300, I haven't had any problems at all.

As for pancake air filters, I have heard (on places like Volkszone) that they are just awful and should be avoided.

the32 36 weber is underjetted for the 2000 motor. you will be strangling the thing.also the inlet tract is massive and you run the risk of manifold icing in the cold. i believe the carb was designed for a 1.6 and is jetted accordingly. see this for more info...
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum ... eber+32+36
hopefully this will help.

Grumpy Midget wrote:

and if you go down the path as to have your twin Solex carbs professionaly serviced and rebuilt your talking £300 to £400 quid, as i came across a vw carb specialist at Tatton Park 3 years ago and thats what he wanted then, cheaper to go for a Weber kit. I used to return around 25-28 mpg depending if you had your slippers on.

steve shaw charged 115 quid for mine two years ago...........

Sorry to disagree.. I have just done first 500 miles on 32/36 after struggling with solexes on my daily driver and am very happy. Power is up, MPG still terrible, starts on the button, no icing issues and sailed through MOT emissions. VOLKSTECH (morecambe) to thank for that, and RSM (again morecambe) have got me a K&N filter for it. DO IT..

In my opinion, it all depends on your level of competence. I don't have a garage, or a balancing kit, or loads of time and cash. I understand roughly what one downdraught carb does, and can work with it. If I had loads of cash and didn't want to be involved, I would go for a expensive dual setup, with everything set up on the dyno.

its nothing to do with your level of competence its all to do with choke sizes!!!! with this carb you are reducing them thereby reducing power.
im sure your van feels much better with this kit on but its prob because your solexs were that knackered!!!
the best solution on these engines is the stock dual single choke set up or dual twin chokes.
if the single carb route was the best then surely the factory would have fitted them at the start as a cost factor??
by the way have you jetted yours yet?? if not you could be running well lean towards the top end which could cause overheating and possible damage. (you may want to get it checked on a rolling road)
the static emmissions test is no guarantee of correct mains jetting as it is a different circuit (idle).
the reason your mpg is still bad is prob because you have to drive everywhere with a fair bit of throttle on.
please read the link to the brickyard site and check out baxters comments on these carbs. he does kinda know his onions!!!
this isnt me having a pop at you chap its just an opinion formed after buggering round with carbs and these engines for a while, and from taking advice from proper experts not the ones that sell you stuff that dont fit / work properly on these engines. ie 009s!!!!
its your choice what you do at the end of the day, but i will say whatever kit you buy, get it to a rolling road to set up properly. you would be amazed what an hour on one of those things will do in terms of power and ecomomy and long term engine longevity!!!

Will read brickyard link.. And yes, I do intend to get it to a rolling road asap!!

Cheers for your comments Jason.

best 80 quid you will ever spend !!!!