Club 80-90 Forums

After spending a fortune at Justkampers to mkae my exhaust fit my 1981 1600 ac i have started to remove the manifold....

One nut and stud came out together and the other stud sheered off!!!!

Fortunately there is enough stud left for me to get nut on and tighten.

What is the best way of loosening the nut without the above happening and if the worst happens ie, stud sheers off too close to the head, what can be done??

I am panicking as were off camping in 2 weeks.

HarryMann wrote:http://wiki.80-90.co.uk/index.php/Techn ... bolts/nuts

Harry, thanks, can this be done while the engine is still in the camper?

Oh and to top it all i dropped the stud into the heat exchanger, tweezers will be used to get this out...i just had to walk away !!

Tweezers or a magnet on a stick maybe..

I don't know air-cooleds but most things can be done with a bit of determination and cunning. The main story is not to queer the pitch too early, try the obvious things first, Rust Buster down the sides of the threads or Plus Gas, before trying to remove with Stillson's or a suitable 'nut grabber'.. first try a flank-drive socket, a set of 3/8" drive deep metric single hex sockets is best, and a 1/2" one for 13mm nuts

I may then use a mix of 'Shock and Awe', either a fair clout smack on the end with a suitable hammer or heat, either oxy/acety if it's nearby but MIG'ing a nut on the end is a good trick too..

the nut/bolt drift works well in many cases, if you can modify a suitable punch (very good for seized self-tappers and c/sunk flush screws), and cobalt drills (3 or 3.2mm to start) have proved a godsend when drilling out, though a good high-speed steel drill (1/8" or 3mm) at the right speed will cut into almost anything...

.. as well as a good pair of Mole-grips with straight jaws, not curved, nor Chinese crap ones with soft jaws and manky mechanisms! Do them up so it hurts your hands to tighten them onto the nut head, then 'ease' them back and forward gently. If you think its moved, get some more Plus-Gas or Rust-Buster down into the thread 'immediately' before continuing.. you may need to re-apply them half a dozen times before soemthing moves, interspersed with a good accurate whack on the bolt or stud end...

If none of that makes sense, maybe just get a tame exhaust centre to use a bit of heat on them... drilling out is all about good access and having done it dozens of times, so if that doesn't apply, you have to try harder than me to avoid it... you are always looking for the slightest sign of the nut or bolt moving - that's the clue. Sometimes it just won't and you'll have to go ahead and shear it off or cut it off or even drill straight up the middle of the whole thing. Re-read the whole artcile and all the links might be a good suggestion... there's lot so ideas in there but its using them in the right order, to avoid the pain barrier.

...and get the thing up in the air enough to avoid strangling yourself with a twisted neck or using bad angles.

Well, after fitting one heat transfer pod and the connectors each side, the new exhaust works and sounds a treat.

After all i didnt have to remove the o/s transfer pod.

Just kampers will accept treurns so that will save some money.

Sorry for the panic guys, but thanks for the advice.