Club 80-90 Forums

I keep doing bits and thinking of a question but never remember to ask..........


CU engine 4 speed box.

1. Since i can't get the sump plug out at the moment (no head at all, and will fix when i've more time) how much oil can i drain by undoing the strainer? ! have a new strainer and oil filter that came in the van (now i know why ) can i drain enough to call it a propper oil change?

2. what should the end of the accelerator cable setup look like? My cable ends with the normal metal bar atatched to the cable then goes into another with a small hole for the spring at one end and a grub screw at the other. When i got the van that was all it had. I've added 2 loose bolts in between the spring and the accelerator arm to take some slack up. should there be another sleve/grub screw the spring side?

3. Where does my oil go?? I leave the van over night and the dipstick says just over min level. I run the van for say a half hour and the dipstick says under minimum. I leave it over night and it's back to just over. where does it get trapped? and A. is it normal and B. should i fill to the left standing or just run level?

4. Why is it so hard to get into 1st? I thought 2nd gear went bad first! All other gears engage realy easly but 1st takes at least 4 goes and sometime i have to start at 2nd. would a short shifter help? do the 4 speed boxes have no 1st syncro?

Can't help with all your questions as it's too long since I had that type of engine.
All of the oil comes out when you remove the strainer.
The oil is spread all around the engine and pumped into the cylinder heads. It takes a while for it to drain down again. Fill it only to the middle of the upper and lower marks when it's been standing for at least fifteen minutes.
Try moving gear shift into second gear position and then quickly back into first. That often works well. You may need to slightly rotate the plate at the base of the gear shift lever. Haynes manual explains it simply. Maybe you have some wear in the linkage or bushes.

blue,,,
as T3 says you'll get most of the oil out of the motor including the filter, buy removing the strainer,,,,,,just be careful when securing the small nuts back around the plate as they can be stripped very easily.

From your description of the throttle cable, my guess is perhaps a length of cable guide is missing where it come into the engine conpartment,,,,? a photo of what you all ready have would help us to help you.

Oil levels can be confusing at any time,,,,best time to check would be just before starting each day so it has time to settle,,,,,,,, checking level straight after the engine has been run can give false readings .

Gear selection,,,,,,,is it OK without the engine running ?can you select all gears easily ? If your answer is yes the problem could be due to the clutch dragging , which would mean a new clutch sooner rather than later.
If gear selection is just as bad when engine not running, then this may be due to worn linkages/pivots/ swivels etc.

Haynes and Bentley manuals show good illustrations of the gear linkages and the bits which wear.....

Regards

Fritz,,,,,,

Hi blue,
For Q2 try here page 42 part B

http://vwt3.pl/OLD/pdf/T3%20DE%20manual.pdf

In foreign again but well detailed......

Important to note that the spring hooks to the cable and not the carb link bar....

Thanks everyone!

The gear change is just as bad from 2nd to 1st. I thought of that.

I'll check the oil and fill to 1/2 way.

I'm missing part 17 (cir clip). loking at the picture should there be play between part 16 and 18? should 16 slide loose in 18? Also should 16 or 17 sit against 18 at idle?

A.---------[]||====|=\/\/\/\/\/\ or


B.-----------[]===|||=\/\/\/\/\/\


I have it set between at the moment with packers to make it like B but sometimes it revs at idle so i'm guessing the spring isn't bringing the throttle bar (||) back to idle as well as A would.

Would A stop me getting full throtle range?