Club 80-90 Forums

Ok, i replaced the crank oil seal, the flywheel 'o' ring and the little needle bearing and it's still leaking.

The engine has no play when you push/pull the cooling fan. but had a little without the fly wheel. (that normal?)

I'm still loosing oil but now notice it's only when I've stopped the engine.

I pulled up after a 40 mile trip and left it running. looked underneath and no drips. the G/f stopped the engine and within 2 seconds it was dripping at an alarming speed (almost a slow pour).

The engine is over full as i got a little heavy handed filling it. It's almost to the top of the twist on the stick!

What would cause it to leak after stopping? the breather hose isn't blocked.

Should the bolts through the fly wheel be sealed somehow? When we took it off there was something crusty in the holes. the oil seems to be streaking out of there.

The_blue wrote:Should the bolts through the fly wheel be sealed somehow?

They should have 'threadlock' on them according to my manual.

Mike.

as i remember, the threaded holes in the crank which the flywheel bolts thread into are a 'blind' hole, and dont go right thru into anywhere oil could come thru, so i dont think it can seep thru the bolt holes, the threadlock is just to stop them undoing, not to actually seal oil in. couldn't be the metal cam sealing plug leaking could it?

how much extra oil do you have in it? mine leaks a lot more when it is more than half way past the min to max lines. I know it is still a leak, but out of sight out of mind

try it with the correct amount of oil in.. if you have too much there will surely be greater oil pressure?

Went to VW today to have a look at the exploded diagram and noticed 1 bit missing. A felt washer (felt seal on the diagram)

Wasn't in the engine when i started the job so didn't know about it.

this seal sits behind the fly wheel around the needle bearing. I'm hoping this is the problem.

Can see streaks where oil has come from behind the bolts.

I'm going to use some red what you call it (hemotite?) on the threads and washer as well


3rd time lucky? i hope so

wasserleaker wrote:as i remember, the threaded holes in the crank which the flywheel bolts thread into are a 'blind' hole, and dont go right thru into anywhere oil could come thru, so i dont think it can seep thru the bolt holes, the threadlock is just to stop them undoing, not to actually seal oil in. couldn't be the metal cam sealing plug leaking could it?

thats what i thought, i can't see anything from the cam seal but it's quite cacked up in there now

the felt washer you mention is just to keep grease in the bearing i think, theres no way oil can come through there even with the felt washer missing, the hole is only slightly deeper than the bearing, and not thru to anywhere oily.

Yer i see that now:(

All back together bolts and everything coated in a load of sealant.

oil level now set at just above min.

10 mile round trip and no puddle.


fingers crossed!

Sump bolt was well rounded, had to loosen the strainer to lower oil.

Any ideas how to get a stuck sump bolt out.


tried grinding the top to 2 flat sides and mole grips on it but even with a screwdriver through the grips it won't shift (didn't force it so the pulled the newly grinded head off)

Bah!!!

Still leaking!!!!


What now?? Totaly out of ideas

Lowered the oil level to just above min. and it's still coming out.


what can i try next? Crank bearings?

Just read through the entire 26 pages the search brings up for 'oil leak'

Found one post sugesting leaving the seal out slightly so it sits on a fresh bit of fly wheel.

Couldn't see a noticable groove but i'm getting to the point i'll try anything


Diving trip to oban slipping through my fingers

not having much luck with this, are you!?
noticed a slight groove on mine when i rebuilt it, amazes me that a seal can wear a groove into steel! no oil leak prob tho, and it'd done 220 thou km. the idea of leaving the seal slightly out,on a 'new' bit of crank sort of makes sense.
it would prob have to be replaced tho if you gouge it out, and put back in 'squarely' but not as far in.

It's not a bad idea to get the boss that the seal seals against smoothed off on a lathe (using emery cloth) or by hand, carefully if there is a fair lip due to the old seal...

Also, the new seal lips should be well lubed before flywheel replaced and needs to be slid on nicely to prevent damage... lip seals tend to suffer 90% of their wear life when being inserted first time - remove any rough edges and check the chamfer is smooth and poilshed

Try gettting the seal in a slitghtly different place so it runs on a different bit of the crank which will have some wear. Make sure seal is lubricated well and is fitted dead square. Has the breather system been checked for blockages or excessive blow by. Is this a 1.6 or 2 litre. Have you tried different makes of seals, most non geniune vw parts are extremely poor quality.

This is the double lipped seal, yes?