Club 80-90 Forums

Hi, as described I’ve narrowed down a small oil leak to the mechanical fuel pump. I’ve read pretty much all I can find about removing it & replacing the gaskets but as a newbie still have questions.

Is this something that can easily be done with the van on maintenance ramps or would I need more height as I can’t quite see where the top bolt is? If the Bakelite block is seized what’s the best approach to removing it? I was going to use brickwerks for gasket kit etc, trust this is recommended.

Anything else to look out for or any advice?
Depending on the ramp question how much might a VW classic workshop charge for this?

Thanks

I’m not sure why you’d need a ramp to change the fuel pump? Just remove engine hatch and away you go. Which bits leaking?
David.

Do you have an air cooled van ?

Yes 2.0 CU, the pump is attached to the crankcase

The top bolt is hidden behind the warm air feed to the air filter box. I have not yet found a way to get to it! You will need ramps, and patience. 

From memory, I dropped the engine...

Hello,
If this will help, here is a video covering the oil pump and tinware on a CU engine:



From about 6 minutes...

Cordialement,

Hi, I've just had my CU engine fuel pump off to check for a leaking diaphragm, it wasn't! Bit of a pain but doable with a jack and axle stands, easy access from wheel arch with wheel removed. There are two like torx bolts, that aren't, that hold the fuel pump on, more splines and found a suitable one in a draper bit kit. The top bolt on the tin ware is hard to find but again doable when removing, just a little fiddly. You will need two paper gaskets for the fuel pump and it's bakelite spacer, just remember to put it on the right way round, like I hadn't when I replaced the fuel lines! The trickiest bit is reinstalling the top bolt on the tin ware as it connects into a bracket under the engine hatch that holds part of the hose, back right of engine bay air box removed, this was loose on mine so a two man job to hold that in place while someone under the bus does the bolty thing. No need for engine removal.
Hope this helps.

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Torx not torx, probably 12 point star drive as per OEM cv joint bolts.

Thanks for all the tips, I’m all lined up to have a crack at sorting this at the weekend.

Assuming I can get it off, when I replace the gaskets do I need to apply any gasket sealant? Also when tightening the pump back down are there any torque specs I should follow.

Thanks

They will be either triple square or Allen key, the Bekolite spacer doesn’t go into the block so can’t get stuck in, it should have an o ring on one side and a gasket on the other , some sealant won’t to do any harm, it’s really a 20 minute job however, the fuel tank will try to empty (clamp the feed)the fuel pipes are different sizes the feed is a different diameter at the pump than the tank end it’s originally a specially made pipe but most likely been changed