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Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 14 Jul 2025, 16:13
by patrickpawsey
Hi all,
I've checked under my 1990 1.9DG to check the condition of the front to back cooling pipes as we're going on a longish trip next month. They look like original plastic ones. I thought they were rubber but I think that was just a layer of road crud on the underside

They feel like hard plastic and are a whiteish grey on top.
Is it a good idea to replace them or only if they're showing signs of active leaks? I've not noticed any but the van's about to go in for a service and coolant flush so it would be the time to do it.
If I take the plunge and change them I'm planning on using the Brickwerks stainless kit. Is it possible to fit them without taking the tank off given it come in 2 halves per pipe?
The pipes to the heater matrix don't look so great either so I'm thinking about replacing them at the same time with the Brickwerks EPDM hose.
Are there other things that it makes sense to do at the same time as a job like this? It had a new tank and fuel lines about 10 years ago.
I took some pictures from the underneath
Thanks in advance!
Patrick
Re: Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 14 Jul 2025, 17:06
by jrt
If you have plastic pipes it’s usually the metal ends/ inserts that rot and cause leaks.
I changed mine without fully removing the tank by dropping one end and supporting it with a jack. You’ll have to reach under it to undo a couple of clips and maybe some zip ties.
David.
Re: Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 14 Jul 2025, 19:53
by Alfredo
Personally I wouldn't get work like that done at a garage just before going on a long trip unless it was essential.
Better to have it done and drive around locally for a few days, just in case the mechanic wasn't on the ball.
Re: Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 15 Jul 2025, 15:16
by TONYT25T25
They normally go where plastic meets rubber, at front for example between plastic pipe and rubber hose going into Radiator, the metal insert inside the plastic pipes (see image example)rusts there and causes a leak, if none visible you maybe ok. Mine have been leaking there for years, I just keep an eye on the coolant levels, but it could get worse, I am probably pushing my luck.

Re: Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 15 Jul 2025, 17:41
by maxstu
Alfredo wrote: ↑14 Jul 2025, 19:53
Personally I wouldn't get work like that done at a garage just before going on a long trip unless it was essential.
Better to have it done and drive around locally for a few days, just in case the mechanic wasn't on the ball.
I agree. Recipe for a cancelled holiday.

Re: Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 16 Jul 2025, 07:31
by shepster
As above really, if and when you get it done get them to change all the grommets and breather pipes as well.
Also, 10 yrs is a long time for fuel hoses these days so I would cast an eye over those as well, especially the engine bay ones as I had some perrish in less than 2 yrs.
Re: Front to back cooling pipes
Posted: 18 Jul 2025, 09:34
by patrickpawsey
Thanks all, this is the conclusion the garage and I came to as well - it's a worthy objective to try to avoid the problem of suddenly loosing all the coolant but it sounds like it's more likely that a flush & change of pipes would cause other leaks-in-waiting to show up.
So we're going to do the service and leave the coolant flush till we're back from hols. They'll check the antifreeze though to make sure it's still up to strength for now.
I've asked them to have a good look at all the coolant pipes and rubbers when it's up on the ramps so we can get a good idea of what bits look like they could do with replacing at the same time if we do go with the new stainless pipes - certainly the heater hoses but I suspect the front rad connectors and maybe some of the engine bay ones could do with replacing. And maybe a new thermostat and gasket while we're about it. Escalates quickly
I did the breather pipes and grommets a couple of years back but I'll get them to check all that if they drop the tank to replace the cooling pipes. The fuel lines from the tank are rigid to the engine bay then Brickwerks E100 everywhere after that. They
feel ok but I guess popping one off and checking the lamination would be the thing to do?
Thanks for the advice, holiday-saving is appreciated!