Club 80-90 Forums

1.6 Diesel 1986 Bilbo Conversion.

I haven't been able to start the engine, and have narrowed the issue down to the box at the back left of the engine bay, the one with all the wires.

When I turn the key, nothing happens except for a buzzing from the box, I have taken the cover off to see and it looks like there is a relay in there that is making the buzzing noise. I don't want to dismantle this lot and potentially ruin the whole van, so looking for your wisdom on the issue and what I can do to resolve.

Steps taken already.

- the battery is fully charged, but after turning the ignition, and after the buzzing the battery has discharged a little, so there is signal getting to the battery.
- I think i have tested power getting to the starter motor, and that registered voltage when the key was turned.

Any other suggestions?

Maybe try changing the relay.

Your battery is completely flat causing the relay to attempt to engage , charge or replace the battery

Thank you, I have checked the battery and it's fine, I get it up to about 13.4 volts from a charger, try to start it, and it drops to about 12.3 after turning the ignition.

At first I thought it might be a seized starter motor, but the buzzing in the relay suggests it's that (or maybe both?).

I have been staring at wiring diagrams on the wiki, bit haven't been able to work out why an error in the glow plug relay would stop the starter motor kicking in, it makes sense that it would, but I can't work out why. This is my first venture into vehicle electrics.

Have taken the relay out and ordered a new one, will let you know how i get on, thank you for suggestions.

Are you testing the battery with a load tester or a multi meter ?

You said the starter motor isn’t turning either ?

Multi meter, and no movement from the starter motor at all.

To begin with i was working on my own and didn't notice the buzzing until i had help, so is possible that the relay issue was caused by another problem such as a stuck starter motor?

davidoft1 wrote: ↑19 Mar 2025, 15:48 Your battery is completely flat causing the relay to attempt to engage , charge or replace the battery

WHS ^^^^    is the obvious cause. This is where the new-fangled jump packs come into their own. What is the voltage dropping to when you attempt to start?
Charge your battery up overnight and then leave it 12 hours and then check the voltage, I would hazard a guess that it isn't holding its charge.

AlBundy wrote: ↑19 Mar 2025, 16:53 Multi meter, and no movement from the starter motor at all.

To begin with i was working on my own and didn't notice the buzzing until i had help, so is possible that the relay issue was caused by another problem such as a stuck starter motor?

Get a new battery , its toast , you need a load tester a multimeter does not give the information you need

Thank you, the battery isn't holding charge well at all, but i am told by the previous owner that it never had, but as had 13.4 volts I asumed it was something else.

I will buy a new one, but keen to avoid repeating this every year, have been recommended putting on an optimate and just plugging it in when I get home. Any other ideas to prevent constant discharge when it's sat idle for a week of two?

AlBundy wrote: ↑19 Mar 2025, 17:14 Thank you, the battery isn't holding charge well at all, but i am told by the previous owner that it never had, but as had 13.4 volts I asumed it was something else.

I will buy a new one, but keen to avoid repeating this every year, have been recommended putting on an optimate and just plugging it in when I get home. Any other ideas to prevent constant discharge when it's sat idle for a week of two?

Buy a 5 year warranty battery, find the source of
The drain or find out if there is a drain

I was advised that there is a drain, from the immobiliser, the Sargent EC155 PCU and also the radio.

I replaced the radio, but there will always be a bit from the other two.

The battery i had was only 2 years old, so i think finding a way to maintain charge when idle is the way to go.

AlBundy wrote: ↑19 Mar 2025, 18:49 I was advised that there is a drain, from the immobiliser, the Sargent EC155 PCU and also the radio.

I replaced the radio, but there will always be a bit from the other two.

The battery i had was only 2 years old, so i think finding a way to maintain charge when idle is the way to go.

An immobiliser will kill a battery in a few weeks if the vehicle is not regularly used

AlBundy wrote: ↑19 Mar 2025, 17:14 Thank you, the battery isn't holding charge well at all, but i am told by the previous owner that it never had, but as had 13.4 volts I asumed it was something else.

I will buy a new one, but keen to avoid repeating this every year, have been recommended putting on an optimate and just plugging it in when I get home. Any other ideas to prevent constant discharge when it's sat idle for a week of two?

You could get a battery isolator. It's a device that goes on the neg battery terminal and you connect the neg cable to it.
If the van is going to be sitting for a while, turn the nob and it isolates the neg of the battery and stops it from running down...a bit of a bitch to fit on an under seat battery, but should be fine if battery is in the engine bay.
Won't help with a dodgy battery cell though.

I had a buzzing relay on my subaru conversion, battery was good but the ground cable was corroded.

Update.

Thank you all for your help, new battery purchased and it started first time. Have bought and installed a battery 'tender' to maintain it while idle which will protect it when not used.

This forum once again proves its value, I was close to getting it picked up for more of an expert to have a look, so thank you for saving me!