Club 80-90 Forums

Dear All,

I recently had some work done on my 1980 CU engine Type 25 which included master and slave cylinder replacement. Yesterday evening I noticed a pool of fluid that turned out to be brake/clutch fluid beneath the drivers side wheel arch on the drive.
I have traced the leak to (hopefully) the hose where it meets the master cylinder. It looks a fairly straight forward repair, but I was hoping somebody may be able to advise on the following please;
diameter of hose and can it be fuel hose (I read somewhere it could)
There are no hose clips on either end of the hose - would it be good practice to add one at each end or even just at the master cylinder 9as the reservoir is plastic)
Would I need to bleed the clutch (is it from master as well as lave cylinder) and brakes? The fluid will be at the level of the master cylinder where it meets the hose.
Many thanks,
Simon

7.3mm id 3mm wall thickness 700mm long
brickwerks listing

no need to bleed clutch or brakes, give the air a little time to get out of the pipe it will bubble up by itself, top up the master cylinder and ensure the level is above the clutch feed pipe 

Thank you both very much for your help

Use methylated sprits to neutralize any spilled brake fluid. Give it more than a few minutes and brake fluid will strip the paint off so it may be too late by now.

Thanks for that - I washed it down with water as soon as I found it but that was all - I'll check how bad it is. 

Thanks again for your help. I have tried to replace the hose, only to find the “nipple” connection on the master cylinder is broken. I have contacted Brickwerks and am waiting for a reply. It is a genuine Vw South Africa replacement part. Does anyone know if I can repair this or do I need to replace it?
Either way, looks like the master cylinder will have to come out and I will have a go at this myself.
My other question is do I bleed the master cylinder via the connection with the solid pipe? I have seen a YouTube video where they appear to be doing it this way.
Thanks for reading my ramblings.
Simon

the white plastic connector that is in the master isn't sold as a separate part, they tend to become brittle over time and can fracture when abused - finding a used cylinder from a recent scrapper and recovering the connector can work

Thanks Aiden

Hello again - I now need to replace the clutch master cylinder and therefore bleed the system through the slave cylinder. This is in a particularly difficult place and I'm not looking forward to getting under the van on a sloping drive and getting covered in brake / clutch fluid but think that's the only way (I changed the gearbox oil recently so can't be much worse can it??) - does anybody have any advice please on if this can be done from above? I imagine it would involve removing tinware and probably just as much of a pain?
Thanks again
Simon

No need to get under the van, go in through the engine bay and crack open the bleed nipple.
David.

just gravity bleed it don't do the old up, open, down, closed, 2 person malarky pressing the pedal, once the fluid is running out with no bubbles should be right to close bleed nipple
original bled nipples were made by ATE and big and quality steel, but even they could shear if left long enough without a cap on and rust had done it's worse, the aftermarket cylinders and nipples can be a bit soft and shear easier, be aware.
If cap has been missing then put some rost off, plus gas etc on and in the nipple and give it a minute or two before levering on it

Thanks both - sorry to confirm my stupidity - we have a 1980 CU engine - would I need to remove much engine tin etc. or am I better off just getting to it from underneath?

Just an update - and (hopefully) useful for anyone doing this on an air cooled model (with tinware in the way) - I looked yesterday evening behind the passenger side rear wheel and think I'll be able to bleed it from here - will remove the wheel for easier access. Will post if it all goes horribly wrong!