Club 80-90 Forums

The connection sometimes work so suspect a loose connection. I think it is the original fitting with a greenish lit surround. Dont want tobreak it but cannot find way of removing it?? Any pointers please.

From what I can remember you have to bend the clip inside the socket inwards and it will pull out from the green plastic surround. Im, sure there will be a how-to on youtube.

Thanks Rob, I will take a closer look.

Don't forget to pull the fuse for the lighter first.

Tks Rob, As you said, there is a Vid on you tube showing it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_RqXjXs7w0o

Just sticking my oar in...
Not necessarily part of the original query, but relevant if chasing electrical issues.

If it is a factory lighter socket (3 inline connector pins), then it should simply unplug from the lighter socket body.
So not 100% necessary to pull the fuse.

But pulling the fuse is always the safer option.
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If it is 'only' the lighter socket affected, then any problems lie in the socket itself, or the short length of wiring between the radio loom and the lighter socket.

If the radio and interior lights are also affected - this would point to an issue closer to the fuse box.
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The wiring run should be...

Fuse box -
Fuse 8 or 9 - early torpedo fusebox
Fuse 3 for CE1 blade-fuse fuse box.

First junction / split.
Branch 1 to interior lights feed.
Branch 2 to radio and cigarette lighter feed.

Second Junction (On Branch 2)
2a to radio
2b to cigarette lighter.

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Wiring colours are:-
Battery Live - red
Ground - brown
Illumination - grey / blue.

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My preference here would be to replace the permanent live red wire with a black ignition live feed.
Or a black / yellow X relief relay live feed.

Not as important if you are running this circuit from a separate fused supply from a leisure battery,
rather than the main fusebox from the starter battery.

They dont come simpler than a lighter socket in a t25 to test the circuit.
They are ground to the dash - could be simply a poor live connection.

Ideal time to upgrade. I installed USB sockets with voltmeter and aux sockets in my T25 last summer.

The back back of the CE1 box is great for ign live sources. Search thr forum
for the relevant pins alt a fuse splitter to add another circuit.

According to his signature panel, he has a 1984 van, so the early torpedo-fuse fusebox.

Still - they are only standard spade connectors, so easy enough to add in a separate wire from one of the fuse points.

UPDATE -
Here you can see three spare slots on the early fusebox.



Fuse 7 (16 amps) - spare slot on unfused connection - battery Live.

Fuse 9 (16 amps) - spare slot on fused connection - battery live.

Fuse 11 (8 amps only) - spare slot on fused connection - ignition live.

Thanks all for feedback, I rarely use it but is always been a bit dodgy, it is currently been used to keep the main battery trickle charged via a small solar panel and controller, in meantime fitted a rubber o ring around it which has taken up the slack and given a better contact.

As the positive connection is the sprung centre pin of your plug, its almost definately the outer neg connection that is your issue, just a slight gentle adjustment of this should give you a tighter connection

Thanks Steve, that sounds about right, there was no way I could tighten the connector behind the dash, so placing the o ring around the fitment on the front of the dash took up the slack earth by the looks of things, prior to this the voltage would fluctuate between 10v and 12.5 as i fiddled with the plug in connector.

Run a earth to crowns.