Club 80-90 Forums

Some months ago I finally got around to having my transmission fluid leak resolved, but now I have an unrelated, non-starting issue...

After a recent period of little/no use I decided to use my bus to keep everything working (ironically).
On starting up, the starter would spin up strong and free, and the engine would fire accompanied by a loud, solid clunk from the engine.
I'd wanted to post on here for advice, but insrtead, after about half-a-dozen short trips, the bus won't start.
At first it sounded like a week battery (despite being fairly new and fully charged) as it whirred and slowed down, but now I just get the solonoid click and the interior lights switch off until i release the key.

Now it feels like something physical, rather than elctrical or fuel related, 'locking' the engine; I've tried turning over the engine by hand with a 30mm spanner on the crank pulley but it won't budge and feels solid...

Starter was rebuilt a few years ago, electrical connections are new, ignition and inhibitor switches are new, battery is recent and fully charged, 'hot-start' relay is new and working.

Bus is an '89 2.1L MV Auto.
Thanks

sounds like a sticking starter motor 

Remove all spark plugs and views tips for excessive fuel, or worse, coolant. Hand brake on and auto gear to N. Then rotate engine with a spanner.

Also check earth strap tightness at both ends on transmission bush mount to chassis.

Right... I've had the starter motor out and it turns freely, I've removed and checked the spark plugs are dry, I'm pretty sure I had the gear selector in N when I tried to turn over the engine with a spanner on the crank nut... I haven't check the earth strap on the transmission simply because I couldnt see it, but I've checked the engine block to chassis strap and battery earth...

Could the engine have 'quietly' seized without giving any prior signs??! :shock:

Did you rotate engine without plugs?
As for the earth strap. It sits on the transmission nose mount, the one with a big round rubber bush, and goes to chassis.

Yes, I had the plugs out when I tried to rotate the engine, to check for hydrolocking due to injectors.
I'll have another crawl inderneath to check the earth

Did it rotate?

This is what you are looking for...

No the engine does not rotate and feels physically locked solid.
Thanks for the pic, I was crawling around from the rear right corner on my drive, hence why I couldn't see it

chris7ian wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 17:38 No the engine does not rotate and feels physically locked solid.
Thanks for the pic, I was crawling around from the rear right corner on my drive, hence why I couldn't see it

Could be a flywheel bolt or cracked flywheel

If the injectors (batch firing) flooded the cylinders then plugs would be wet.

The injectors prime the cylinders with half a second spray when you turn on ignition. It is very audible. Even from drivers' position. Then switch on again with the cranking of the engine.
Check that is correct?

I had an ECU failure and it flooded the bores to a point that petrol was coming out of the exhaust joints. It still turned over, though.

davidoft1 wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 17:59

chris7ian wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 17:38 No the engine does not rotate and feels physically locked solid.
Thanks for the pic, I was crawling around from the rear right corner on my drive, hence why I couldn't see it

Could be a flywheel bolt or cracked flywheel

Auto tranny, David. But a flexplate bolt could have come loose and jammed.

maxstu wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 18:09

davidoft1 wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 17:59

chris7ian wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 17:38 No the engine does not rotate and feels physically locked solid.
Thanks for the pic, I was crawling around from the rear right corner on my drive, hence why I couldn't see it

Could be a flywheel bolt or cracked flywheel

Auto tranny, David. But a flexplate bolt could have come loose and jammed.

Yup flex plates have a habit of cracking too, i would be looking in the flexplate hole to see

The plugs and fuel priming all appear normal with the familiar one-second buz etc

A little more info in case the problem could be tranny related? I had a seal replaced in the transmission less than 1000km ago at a specialist due to an ATF leak. I can't remember off the top of my head what seal it was as the invoice is non-specific.
I supplied the seal in a kit as I'd already purchased it so I'll see if can figure out which one of these they used:

* 010 321 182     – round seal 8,3X2,4 [x1]
* 010 323 487 B – seal 51,2MM [1]
* 010 323 525 C – seal 71,6X80X5,6 [x1]
* 010 323 487 C – seal 61,4 [x1]
* 003 323 525 A – seal 97MM [x1]
* 010 323 533     – seal 91X3MM [x3]
* 010 409 549 B – seal 200X205X3,5 [x1]
* N 028 201 2     – seal 14X2,5 [x1]

They also cleaned up some corrosion on the sideplate above the dipsick