Club 80-90 Forums

Hi folks
Currently undertaking Rustoration (see thread for details. viewtopic.php?t=163051 )

Encountered a lack of rigidity leading to the cab door no longer closing, as it’s dropped a cm or more at the rear. This is in the context of removing the front arch, and rebuilding the B pillar.

I want it roughly in shape for rebuilding, so that the door closes when it’s finished, so am thinking about options for achieving that. And yes, I know prevention is better than cure, but we are where we are. I recall (too late) ?Plasticman I think? demonstrating a brace from base of A pillar to a third of the way up the B pillar before removing the arch, to avoid it spreading and hence the door dropping.

I’m in a limited space


and removing the door is not possible in situ.

Handy to have the door on for assessing when it’s in shape.

So any ideas? Options I’ve thought of are:

1. Ratchet strap pulling base of A pillar and a main chassis rail.

2. Jack under base of A pillar

3. Push (with Jack or something) on front of van at bumper level, bracing against end wall of garage.

I also have a length of threaded bar, that could be used…

So, ideas, experience, all welcome.

Am I really the only eejit that’s effed this up?

Anyway, 2 ratchet straps from cross member under dash to interior lamp cutout behind drivers seat. Pulled it into a better fit, not perfect tho. Will try Jack after the weekend (need it for other vehicle)

Jacking the front made no difference, I’ll just need to adjust my ratchet strap location.

When I cut out my fridge panel and inner sill, when I cut into a piece of floor near the rear bulkhead the 'C' post spread out about 1cm, meaning if I had welded the floor up as it was then the new fridge panel would have been proud of the van at the 'B' post if that makes sense. I had to use two ratchet straps, pass it over the C post, out the sliding door side of the van and underneath back to the C post. I then had to ratchet it up so tight, thought the ratchet straps may give up until the floor gap had closed and then weld it up again. That was a close one!

My point is you may need to apply more tension than you think to get it back to where it was in order to Weld it up.

Aye, I’d need an extension on the lever to get it tighter. The angle of the pull makes a difference too, but I’ll need to weld on some loops onto the roof channel and hinge panel to get a better angle.

Thanks for the contribution though, and it’s reassuring that we have to use so much tension to shift it!