Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,

My brake lights having begun to come on only with much bigger pressure to the pedal. Ive a third brake light so i can see from inside when they come on- id guess and go straight to the brake light switch on the master cylinder ( i have 2 switches) , but is there anything else that could cause this?  they arent old switches, i changed the cylinder and switches about 3 years ago.

thanks!
john

Nearly always the brake light switch. If you can get the original ATE switches.

any idea where to get genuine ATE switches these days ? 
 

Aidan wrote: ↑31 Oct 2022, 19:13 any idea where to get genuine ATE switches these days ? 

I usually get them from Autodoc of VW.

I'll check to see what is available from VW, suffix H isn't available from Autodoc in ATE quality and judging by the price it went nla a good while ago, only the 3 pin one for the bay etc.. suffix G is available as ATE
I need to check on reverse switches too as they were available for like £30 each, but the aftermarket ones are pants, they have just got cheaper and nastier and shorter lived, and my stock of good used ones is pretty much used up, especially the early spade type ones

Aidan wrote: ↑31 Oct 2022, 20:28 suffix H isn't available from Autodoc in ATE quality

Really, two in stock. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/193833

Thanks guys. I seem to recall mine are 3 pin ones.. not really sure how or why. Anyway I'll have a root around when I get a spot of time in the daylight

bigherb wrote: ↑31 Oct 2022, 21:32

Aidan wrote: ↑31 Oct 2022, 20:28 suffix H isn't available from Autodoc in ATE quality

Really, two in stock. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/193833

weird using search for VW part number (113 945 515 H) on Autodoc you find this 03.3526-2002.3 ATE Brake Light Switch Electric-hydraulic, M10x1, 2-pin connector ➤ AUTODOC 

out of stock hence my post

the one in your link is 113 915 515 H; great that it fits and is basically the same; it's so annoying when you search for stuff that sometimes there are wrong items listed against the VW part number (especially aftermarket stuff listed as being the late version but is actually the early version and vice versa) and sometimes old alternatives that you won't find unless you know manufacturers number, or all the VW alternatives and supercessions - sometimes it depends how you put the number in, with spaces, without spaces, or if you go in through vehicle, you find different things on same site; cheers for the link


also checked with VW TPS only 1 of 113 945 515 H in stock in UK at distribution depot, whether there are more in Germany couldn't say, retail is £28.49, and VW say part number 113 915 515 H isn't a good number suggesting the listing on Autodoc is slightly awry ?

no more genuine reverse switches to be had either, late is NLA, early still listed but none in stock in UK, would probably go obsolete if actually ordered, we shall see I have ordered a couple

I might.. might have a spare Ill check.

Had a look today, I guess it's just the switch as suspected- only lasted about 2 years. Theres two 3 pin switches on the cylinder. I've had one disconnected for a few years since one has melted and makes the brake light be on all the time. It behaves fine with just one connected. (Are there two for redundancy?) This is a pic of the other one, melted.

Are the connector blocks available? I couldn't find one

E D I T- found them on autodoc as recommended above-
https://m.autodoc.co.uk/ate/959101

£18 quid though! Vs about £4 on brickworks (out of stock though).ATE worth it?

Also found the connector block, I think-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325411212236 ... media=COPY

Would it not make sense to replace the connector first as the switch may be ok and just the burnt out terminal causing the issues?
I’d be tempted to rig a temporary connection using crimp on spade terminals and see what happens before spending out, but I am tight as f**k

slowcoach wrote: ↑06 Nov 2022, 16:37

£18 quid though! Vs about £4 on brickworks (out of stock though).ATE worth it?

Yep
 

Forden341 wrote:Would it not make sense to replace the connector first as the switch may be ok and just the burnt out terminal causing the issues?
I’d be tempted to rig a temporary connection using crimp on spade terminals and see what happens before spending out, but I am tight as f**k

It's not the burnt connector causing the problem first described, it's been disconnected for a few years. But yes, I'll prob bypass the burnt connector block to check the full operation with both switches wired up.

Issue only showed up a few weeks ago, so it's new behaviour for the connected switch.

Agree on testing before spending!

Thanks herb, always appreciate your input on electrics- you've helped me in the past, you know your onions!