Dometic CRX Fridge not cooling - FIXED!!
Posted: 27 Jul 2022, 18:41
Hi all - Am I on the right track with this.?
It is for a diffrrent VW, but just as relevant if you have a fridge in your camper van
Query is whether the factory wiring harness for a fridge can cause this fault in a VW Crafter High Top, Long Wheel Base camper van. (2014 / 64 plate).
Not mine obviously...
It belongs to my Clinical Lead.
She has reported problems with her Dometic CRX fridge not working.
All the relevant lights come on, but it simply does not cool down.
There is the flashing orange sensor-fault light, but I believe that is a red herring.
After a lot of googling, I discovered that the biggest issue is with the power feed cables being too thin to carry adequate current, or resulting in excessive losses over the 3 metre cable distance from the leisure battery.
All very odd as it has a 15amp inline blade fuse.
Further research found that a company makes beefier cables to cure this problem.
The company quotes 6mm csa cable...
To bring this into perspective - the fusebox to ignition switch feed on my T25 is only 4mm CSA, and that feeds everything on the van.
Except the starter, which has 6mm csa cabling to minimise losses over the 4 metre cable run;
and the main starter battery to fuse box cable which is also 6mm csa.
Anyway - as with many items at the moment, they are currently out of stock.
So - this is the plan.
It is really very simple.
3 metre long cables
One for battery positive feed.
And one for return to battery negative.
- 8mm eyelet at one end and a sturdy female spade and insulator at the other end.
The positive cable has a 15 amp fuse at the battery end and a little male spade tail at the fridge end for a fan to connect to.
Due to the thickness, I used a gas ring on my cooker to heat the cables enough for the connectors to be soldered effectively.
I always crimp, solder and heat-shrink tube all my wiring.
On heavy stuff, good insulation and security is imperative.
The real test will be on Friday when we test my loom and see if it sorts her fridge issue.
Fingers crossed.
I have mentioned that I am not a fan of the connector block that the conversion company installed for the previous owner.
A bit rough, but I suppose it fulfils a need.
I suspect using the middle post and a link cable to the right-hand post for the negative rail will not help either.
And the leisure battery - strapped back, rather than clamped in situ.
It is for a diffrrent VW, but just as relevant if you have a fridge in your camper van
Query is whether the factory wiring harness for a fridge can cause this fault in a VW Crafter High Top, Long Wheel Base camper van. (2014 / 64 plate).
Not mine obviously...
It belongs to my Clinical Lead.
She has reported problems with her Dometic CRX fridge not working.
All the relevant lights come on, but it simply does not cool down.
There is the flashing orange sensor-fault light, but I believe that is a red herring.
After a lot of googling, I discovered that the biggest issue is with the power feed cables being too thin to carry adequate current, or resulting in excessive losses over the 3 metre cable distance from the leisure battery.
All very odd as it has a 15amp inline blade fuse.
Further research found that a company makes beefier cables to cure this problem.
The company quotes 6mm csa cable...
To bring this into perspective - the fusebox to ignition switch feed on my T25 is only 4mm CSA, and that feeds everything on the van.
Except the starter, which has 6mm csa cabling to minimise losses over the 4 metre cable run;
and the main starter battery to fuse box cable which is also 6mm csa.
Anyway - as with many items at the moment, they are currently out of stock.
So - this is the plan.
It is really very simple.
3 metre long cables
One for battery positive feed.
And one for return to battery negative.
- 8mm eyelet at one end and a sturdy female spade and insulator at the other end.
The positive cable has a 15 amp fuse at the battery end and a little male spade tail at the fridge end for a fan to connect to.
Due to the thickness, I used a gas ring on my cooker to heat the cables enough for the connectors to be soldered effectively.
I always crimp, solder and heat-shrink tube all my wiring.
On heavy stuff, good insulation and security is imperative.
The real test will be on Friday when we test my loom and see if it sorts her fridge issue.
Fingers crossed.
I have mentioned that I am not a fan of the connector block that the conversion company installed for the previous owner.
A bit rough, but I suppose it fulfils a need.
I suspect using the middle post and a link cable to the right-hand post for the negative rail will not help either.
And the leisure battery - strapped back, rather than clamped in situ.