Club 80-90 Forums

Aiming to cut out top of jacking point/hanger, weld in new 3mm plate then repair sill and closing panels. I know I could cut off the old mount but other than this area it's good and so is the surrounding metal. Thoughts? Thanks


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waltraud wrote: ↑14 Jun 2022, 15:07
Aiming to cut out top of jacking point/hanger, weld in new 3mm plate then repair sill and closing panels. I know I could cut off the old mount but other than this area it's good and so is the surrounding metal. Thoughts? Thanks

Exactly right I think. Leaving the mount in place means it will be in the right place. If you cut it out you'll have to trig up the new one and that will be complicated. I did something like this a few years ago, and managed to cut a rectangular (ish) hole in the top of the jacking point with a hacksaw blade, then make a 3mm thick patch with a 2mm gap all round to fit in the hole. The gap is important to get full penetration when butt welding it in. You'll need to use plenty of power to get it butt welded full thickness. My patch is pretty much invisible from below. Then you can weld the cill to the jacking point to stop water getting between the two.
 

Waltraud

You probably remember this thread as you contributed at the time viewtopic.php?p=8266487&hilit=rear+jack ... t#p8266487

Cheers Colin, remember it well. Mine is thick at the rear and thin at the front so I may cut a large square out and as you wisely say leave an adequate gap for weld penetration. I am considering cutting it all out but am port operative so welding is ok but crawling underneath with heavy jacks ain't!


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Amazing how much magnetite type rust patches can seen solid until you go hard with a cold chisel and club hammer and it falls away leaving only thin metal left and a lot of rebuilding !


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waltraud wrote: ↑15 Jun 2022, 19:33 Amazing how much magnetite type rust patches can seen solid until you go hard with a cold chisel and club hammer and it falls away leaving only thin metal left and a lot of rebuilding !


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Yes indeed. I'm repairing the body and framework on......... ............120 tonnes of 1960s diesel loco, and a fair proportion of it is that black stuff.
 

Mercy! Now that's a resto!!


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colinthefox wrote: ↑15 Jun 2022, 22:15

waltraud wrote: ↑15 Jun 2022, 19:33 Amazing how much magnetite type rust patches can seen solid until you go hard with a cold chisel and club hammer and it falls away leaving only thin metal left and a lot of rebuilding !


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Yes indeed. I'm repairing the body and framework on......... ............120 tonnes of 1960s diesel loco, and a fair proportion of it is that black stuff.

is that a Western ? If so which one ?

Aidan wrote: ↑17 Jun 2022, 06:56
is that a Western ? If so which one ?

Western Campaigner 1010. Read all about it (and hand over your spare cash, it's a big project) at depg.org
At least I don't have to repair the broken 3 speed auto gearbox. You up for that Aidan?
 

I don't do autos 
If it had been 1062 Western Courier I'd have been more interested, that's 'my' loco, my tag, as it came into service the day I was born, so when I was a train spotter back in the 70s I adopted the tag; I contributed to the saving of it back in the day.

Aidan wrote: ↑17 Jun 2022, 12:17 I don't do autos 

Excuses.

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