Club 80-90 Forums

Ive finally put temporary engine in. Now, after remedying countless coolant leaks, have now seen a small ATF drip coming from the auto transmission. Just by the support bush. Wasnt there before engine removal.
Got a feeling l may have damaged something when engine was out.
I supported gearbox with a piece of wood.
Only happens with engine running.

Regards
Stuart

All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 18:47 All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Are you suffering with Stu’s van too??

So apart from suggesting cleaning it all up with brake cleaner to see where the leak is actually coming from I’m not really any help

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 18:47 All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Tell me about it!
Five times lve partially drained the coolant from this engine!
First was a silly error. I trapped the o'ring between engine block and thermostat housing. New o'ring. Next the blue thermostat sensor not holding with a plastic clip. Changed to a metal one. Good. Then the most inaccessible coolant pipe on the oil cooler decided to leak. Change it from oeticker clip to jubilee. Then l found a pinprick hole in the large front/back metal water pipe. So changed that out, too. Sorted.
But now a problem with the short 90 degree hose from metal pipe not reaching thermostat housing. So thought fit rubber coolant pipe first, then the metal pipe to water pump afterwards. Now bolts to the water pump dont align. Aaaargh!
Called it a day and poured Maxine and myself a very stiff gin and tonic.
What to do?

Mocki wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 19:35 Are you suffering with Stu’s van too??

Smart a*** , Poorly worded clearly .

Mocki wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 19:35

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 18:47 All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Are you suffering with Stu’s van too??

So apart from suggesting cleaning it all up with brake cleaner to see where the leak is actually coming from I’m not really any help

There's enough going on with my van for all!

Mocki wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 19:35

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 18:47 All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Are you suffering with Stu’s van too??

So apart from suggesting cleaning it all up with brake cleaner to see where the leak is actually coming from I’m not really any help

It's hidden away beyond vision. But lm at the point of converting to manual. Or, dare l say, a T4 camper, TBH!
This one has really challenged my limited mechanical abilities. Lack of funds not helping neither.

maxstu wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 20:00

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 18:47 All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Tell me about it!
Five times lve partially drained the coolant from this engine!
First was a silly error. I trapped the o'ring between engine block and thermostat housing. New o'ring. Next the blue thermostat sensor not holding with a plastic clip. Changed to a metal one. Good. Then the most inaccessible coolant pipe on the oil cooler decided to leak. Change it from oeticker clip to jubilee. Then l found a pinprick hole in the large front/back metal water pipe. So changed that out, too. Sorted.
But now a problem with the short 90 degree hose from metal pipe not reaching thermostat housing. So thought fit rubber coolant pipe first, then the metal pipe to water pump afterwards. Now bolts to the water pump dont align. Aaaargh!
Called it a day and poured Maxine and myself a very stiff gin and tonic.
What to do?

The pipe from the pump to the thermostat housings an interesting one, I'd assume the rubber hose to the thermostat housing might be pushed too far onto the metal pipe? or maybe the pipes just deformed?

If it's any consolation on my van what turned into a simple replacing drivers side (right) front shock turned into replacing the ball joints, track rod end and backing plate for the brake disk.. however idiot here ordered the 1986 onward backing plates where my vans a 1985... so I've had to order the correct ones.
Was dreading the lower ball joint as I don't have a press so took it to a local garage and he promptly broke the rim off the new joint when we tried to press it in. He did order another and charged me £20 for pressing it in, which is about the price of the bloomin joint he bust. But hey ho.

Then after all that arsing around when I started the van it was popping and running like a*** and it stank of petrol, after much messing I replaced the ignition module from the 2.1 and it ran fine.

maxstu wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 20:06

Mocki wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 19:35

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 18:47 All fun and games huh Stu, if it makes you feel any better you aren't the only one to be suffering with your van

Are you suffering with Stu’s van too??

So apart from suggesting cleaning it all up with brake cleaner to see where the leak is actually coming from I’m not really any help

It's hidden away beyond vision. But lm at the point of converting to manual. Or, dare l say, a T4 camper, TBH!
This one has really challenged my limited mechanical abilities. Lack of funds not helping neither.

If you want to do the manual conversion I have a set of pedals / brake booster spare

Stesaw wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 20:13

maxstu wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 20:06

Mocki wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 19:35
Are you suffering with Stu’s van too??

So apart from suggesting cleaning it all up with brake cleaner to see where the leak is actually coming from I’m not really any help

It's hidden away beyond vision. But lm at the point of converting to manual. Or, dare l say, a T4 camper, TBH!
This one has really challenged my limited mechanical abilities. Lack of funds not helping neither.

If you want to do the manual conversion I have a set of pedals / brake booster spare

Cheers Steve.

Did read your tale of woe too. Testing blighters aren't they. Just when you think its all sorted too!
Trouble is, this is my third T3 camper. The previous two were ultra reliable and fitted with LPG. So really economical to own. Then l had money to throw at them without worry.
Now l dont have youth or pockets of cash at my disposal. And this van is not giving me the joy the last two gave, that's for sure!
Perhaps its time to move on.
Will keep in mind the pedals and booster. Waiting to hear from Aidan or other transmission sages. If this new ATF leak is terminal will deffo go manual.
Davidoft near Chichester did a conversion recently. He's good for info and parts too.
Cheers
Stuart

maxstu wrote: ↑25 Jan 2022, 15:38 Ive finally put temporary engine in. Now, after remedying countless coolant leaks, have now seen a small ATF drip coming from the auto transmission. Just by the support bush. Wasnt there before engine removal.
Got a feeling l may have damaged something when engine was out.
I supported gearbox with a piece of wood.
Only happens with engine running.

Regards
Stuart

Looking at my first photo more carefully, l believe it's the AT oil cooler that may be leaking? You can see the silver coloured cooler between the gearbox mount on the right. An on the left is the black belly pan of the transmission.
I have a spare cooler and o'rings. Is it possible to the change oil cooler without removing this part of the transmission?

Regards
Stuart

If l remove the transmission nose bush mount, where are the best places to support transmission and final drive section?

So, l went ahead and changed the ATF auto transmission oil cooler today.
The task itself is not particularly difficult. Just ruddy awkward. If doing again l could half the time. Allow 2-4 hours
The van needs safely raising by about 30cms to allow work space underneath.
Support the transmission with a large block of wood on top of a trolley jack and remove the nose bush 13mm bolts. Now undo the 17mm bolts on the end support bracket. Watch for a spacer washer under one bolt. . It's suggested to release the accelerator lever on the side. I did.
Now carefully drop the transmission by about 50mm. Grab a container, clamp off and remove the two coolant pipes. You will get wet! Grab another tray. Then undo the two 17mm ATF cooler retaining bolts. You will get ATF down your sleeve. Remove cooler.

Note spacer on left side behind bracket





At this point the combination of coolant and ATF over your driveway will make you realise paying 2-3 hours' labour is actually a sound idea.

Nice and clean


Remove old seals from bolts. Then give the bolts a scrupulous clean up. Dip two new seals in clean ATF fluid and slide into the recess under the head of each bolt.

Replacement seals


Auto transmission coolant chamber. Bottom one out. Note seal position.
Top one ready for new seals.


Next, remove the other two seals from the cooler box and clean it up. I had a spare cooler box ready for new seals. Again, dip new seals in ATF before placing the seals on the cooler
Give the transmission area a good clean up.
At this point l gave up photographing. The combo of coolant and ATF got a bit messy.
Add coolant pipes first. Then bolt on cooler to transmission. Be certain seals are in correct place before applying torque settings.
Raise transmission and reverse procedure for rebuild. Use torque values throughout
Its unlikely you will need to top up with ATF. But get engine nice and hot before checking ATF level stick. The red ATF lubricant must be clean and red. Top up as necessary. Do not overfill.

Regards
Stuart

and did the leak stop ( pinkies crossed)

Yes. But it took a bit of time to 'dry up'. It marked the board under camper last night. Cleaned it off. All good this morning. Started engine. No drips.
If doing again (no thankyou) l would raise the front of the camper slightly higher. Then when the transmission nose is dropped to access the cooler banjo bolts the holes are still above horizontal, preventing constant seeping of ATF.
Messy job!