Club 80-90 Forums

Hi pics attached
Would the failure of the dash variation illumination light cause this ?
Last night dashs light flickered then off totally before filling the drivers cab with smoke ?

Cant seem to load the pics

When you reply, to add a photo click on the black icon with an i in it. What year is your van?

AngeloEvs wrote: ↑11 Oct 2021, 07:42 When you reply, to add a photo click on the black icon with an i in it. What year is your van?

Hi
Van is an 83 Westy Joker . I did try that I symbol ,came up as images loading but nothing happend . Tried again with a single pic .same story .mive removed all the Grey / Blue striped wire now as its don to the copper core up the the rear of the factory connector block ordered some non insulated crimps and a new switch this morning, got to check the fuse too then I'll replace it see what happens ?
Cheers

Pic try again .

Another pic

Dimmer switch

Bottom rotation switch looks like its melted a little on the rear and will not rotate .
New JK one arrived today .just waiting on the non shrouded crimps to replace the wiring with new ,and go for a go at it see what happens.

More damaged wiring

Wow.  That is scary.  It's a wonder a fuse didn't blow before that damage was done.  Worth checking that the correct fuse is in place

I would hazard a guess that the wiring has been chafing on some metal part and has shorted to ground. The looms under there aren't exactly wrapped and tied up to prevent this happening especially with years of owners getting their grubby little mitts in there.
Have a look and you will most probably find a piece of dash/other metal that has burn marks where it started.
Switch damage is more likely a result of the short and not the cause.

Cheers for the replys . I'll do both fuse to be sure and check for arcing under there .
Thanks

I suspect a proper dash-out inspection should be carried out. To ensure that every inch is checked.

And then replace the damage with good wires.

And loom up to keep the wiring tidy and protected,
Before cable-tieing into place to minimise movement and chafing.

I assume you will be heat-shrink sleeving any exposed terminals and joints.

A fuse should have stopped this from happening so I suspect either the wrong size fuse has been fitted or there has been other tampering with the wiring over the years by people who don't understand what they are doing. Fuses are there, as it was pointed out to me, to protect the wiring and not the component the are a fuse for which is why they are always fitted as close to the power source as possible.

The backlighting circuit terminal 58b (grey/blue) is powered by terminal 58 (grey) at the main lighting switch, along with L & R side and tail lights (grey/black & grey/red) and the number-plate light (grey/green). On the early fuseboard, some of my info suggests 58b shares one of the two 10A fuses at positions 1 and 2, which protect the other terminal 58 circuits, whilst other info shows no fuse at all. On the 85> fuseboard, for GB vans at least, there is normally a single clip-on fuseholder on top with a 10A fuse for terminal 58b.

Personally, for repairs, I would remove the dash harness and do it on the bench. Due to the steering column, access isn't as good on a LHD as on a RHD, but it should still IMO be possible to remove the wiring without removing the main steel dashboard. Instead of the two plugs (red & blue) used on the 85> fuseboard, there are a number of single-pin connections which must all be put back to their correct locations so make sure to take a note before disconnecting. It may be helpful to remove the steering wheel, undo the two screws holding the column in place and lower it down for better access.

A couple of PDF's which may be helpful if working on an early dash harness. First, a table showing the overall layout of the >85 fuseboard, second, a table showing the relay pinouts.

http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/T3_early_fuseboard.pdf
http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/T3_early_fuseboard_relays.pdf

HTH