Club 80-90 Forums

Ok so recently my 1.9 has been starting iffy from cold as in it isnt firing on all 4, or at least that's what it sounds like the revs will drop to about 500 and fluctuate up and down as its running rough but after about 60 seconds at 2k it clears up and you hear it pick up. Took the spark plugs out to check all seem OK and not burned away none were wet. Oil Pressure is fine at 4 bar cold down to 1 bar hot give or take a bit more not that I think that's an issue.

Now could it be a partial blocked idel jet on the carb? or maybe something more sinister like a valve sticking? I suppose I should take the covers off and check for that.

Before I start poking around and taking bits apart, I just wondered if anyone else has experienced the same.

So once warm starts and runs fine?


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Do you use the cold start procedure, ie before starting, accelerator flat to floor release, then crank engine over.

Plug leads , dissy cap and rotor ?

Petrol tubes worn (E10 ) and filter at fuel entrance to carb!

Da dan wrote: ↑05 Oct 2021, 15:42 So once warm starts and runs fine?


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When warm it idles at 1k just fine and starts without a fuss.

Mocki wrote: ↑05 Oct 2021, 16:35 Plug leads , dissy cap and rotor ?

Had new leads a couple of years ago, Cap and rotor looked OK when I checked em around July. I'll do another check on those bits to see what they look like etc. I woulda thought if I had an issue there the problem would be there all the time? 

TONYT25T25 wrote: ↑05 Oct 2021, 16:19 Do you use the cold start procedure, ie before starting, accelerator flat to floor release, then crank engine over.

Yep. Starts 90% of the time fine, sometimes it doesn't work and needs a slight bit of pedal to start then hold it for about 60 seconds and it's fine if a bit low on the RPM at around 800 til warm. I think I need to check the carb because it sits around 1.5k whereas a few months ago it was 2k and as it warmed up the revs would increase til I blip the throttle.
 

SurfT25 wrote: ↑05 Oct 2021, 16:50 Petrol tubes worn (E10 ) and filter at fuel entrance to carb!

I don't think my brosol (yeah I know crap due a 2e3 rebuild soon) had an inline filter BUT that was a year or so ago now so I will check it and I'll check the lines to make sure. 
 

When I use the cold start procedure, it fires but I have to what I call tickle the accelerator pedal a bit initially to encourage it to pick up a bit more.  It then settles at a fast idle and when warmed up I give the accelerator pedal another tap and it reduces to a slow idle.  Happy with this procedure as it does work but only do this test when stationary so presume that even when I drive off the same parts settle down.

If I touch the pedal from cold start after the inital depress of it generally the engine will die so I just let it rev at 2k for a min then give the throttle a dab and it settles on an albeit low turnover.

Could it be as simple as a perished vacuum hose connected to the carb/choke unit? I had a similar problem a while ago and replaced the four bits of hose on my DF engine and the problem was solved. To check if this is the problem, start the engine, spray some WD40 along the hose. If the hose is perished you will hear the engine note change. Hopefully, this is the simple answer and cheap to fix.

Hydro tappets drained down and gone spongy. They won't open the valves like this, so it takes a minute or two (or 10) for them to purge the air and start to function properly.

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ajsimmo wrote: ↑05 Oct 2021, 23:34 Hydro tappets drained down and gone spongy. They won't open the valves like this, so it takes a minute or two (or 10) for them to purge the air and start to function properly.

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Wouldn't the engine get all tappity though if the lifters have bled down? I'm going to be doing an oil change before going up to Scotland at the end of the week so maybe I should have a look at them and do a refil and redo the tappet adjustment.
They are all new-ish tappets that were adjusted to 2 turns in. I checked them a month ago and they all seemed OK, I couldn't push any of the rocker arms. 

Ok, just a thought. Probably not that.
Reading through again, it looks more likely to be the brosal. They're a bit prone to problems, such as choke being too "binary". It's probably coming off far too quickly. Try disconnecting the electrical heater on the choke, which will slow down the disengagement.

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Checked the choke which seems really loose, whereas when I last checked it about 6 months ago there was not a lot of movement in it. When going through the cold start motions the choke didn't reset so maybe something not sitting right, or maybe the spring could have come off or broke.. Will investigate tomorrow when I do my oil change.

So, followup to this. I've rebuilt my spare carb and fitted that as I was assuming i had a blocked jet or something with the brosol. After fitting the rebuilt 2e3 was still getting issues with hesitation and lack of power, however I've found the culprit. Was my dissy vac advance that had somehow filled with oil. Ordered a new one but emptied it out and put it back on til the new one gets here, engine starts fine now from cold, Slight hesitation on acceleration up to about 3 grand then goes like stink. Going to look at the timing after I swap the vac unit out and make sure thats all OK.

However the vans a bugger to start from warm now

New one just turned up along with a new rotor arm, the rotor arm looks a bit iffy as the middle connector is at an angle, not sure if that will affect performance or wear funny.


Is that something I need to send back to BW or is that OK?