Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All,

Just a quick question.
I have a 2.1 DJ that needs checking over and potentially refurbing.
It has been stood for a few years.

The question is simple - can I use a standard 4-arm engine stand?
Or do I need a proper circular yoke to hold the engine by its bell-housing flange.?

Robsey wrote: ↑15 Aug 2021, 22:13 Hi All,

Just a quick question.
I have a 2.1 DJ that needs checking over and potentially refurbing.
It has been stood for a few years.

The question is simple - can I use a standard 4-arm engine stand?
Or do I need a proper circular yoke to hold the engine by its bell-housing flange.?

I use a four arm rotating engine stand. Cost about £50.00 brand new and delivered. Great bit of kit for working on the heads, as you can spin engine on its side.

Cheers me dears....

That is very much like the one that I have... so that is good to know.

I was sure that I had read somewhere that the flange could be distorted if I didn't use the circular yoke.

I am a long term member of the "sod's law" club.
If it can go wrong, it usually does.

I also used a 4 arm for my 2.1, I found that I needed to be careful as when I rotated the engine the arms caught against the lip on the case as the weight moved around.

but I suppose that could have been me not tightening it up enough! 

I have had a few flanges crack on me, then it’s really hard to get such a large piece of aluminium welded. I’m happy with a Black & Decker work mate these days. I tilt the engine and prop it up when it’s time to do the push rods. You’ve only got to clean the bottom, then all the work is topside anyway.

I find it better to use a bellhousing bolted to the plate on an engine stand rather than the 4 legs, the clarke stand I have the legs couldn't reach the wbx four bolts without modification and weren't really the ideal length on the stand offs, especially if working with flywheel on just doing head seals;  I have plenty of 'scrap' petrol bellhousings £20 inc delivery of anyone wants one

Thanks for the info chaps.

I suppose you could use over-length M10 bolts attached through long spreader plates to reduce localised forces.

I suspect that I will be in-touch soon for a bell housing.

Never had any issues using this type. No cracks and no warps lve noticed. Correct clamping force does takes a bit of time to set up.
Yes you need to remove flywheel. Not a big issue. But by spinning engine on it side lets fitting heads and pushrods etc become an easy take as you are aided by gravity.

I've got two Clarke 4 legged ones, and never had an issue. Cracking and warping? Really? I've not had this happen in dozens of engines. The only minor irritation is the roll pins in the flywheel just foul on the carrier legs. I just remove the roll pins. I've also drilled the swivel tubes (inner & outer) so that I can peg it at vertical to fit the 2nd cylinder head (1st done on the bench).

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Excellent - thanks.
I have an SGS manufactured stand, which is very similar to the Clarke unit shown.

I suppose that most stands are 'more or less' the same.

Maybe I was being over cautious, but as said above, if something can go belly up, it usually does for me, and I can do without the faff and expense of any additional remedial work or repairs as a result of my own omissions.