Club 80-90 Forums

Looking for what tool to buy to crack this nut.
I got the Empi thing but thats not going to do it,
how can I get it on while the wheels on the ground?
Its just for hammering when the drums off I guess.

So I have a decent 1/2inch drive socket set,
but no breaker bar in the set and no 46mm socket.
Should I just buy a socket,
or a 1/2 inch breaker bar and socket,
or is it going to take a 3/4 drive to crack it?

Perhaps its better to use an impact air socket,
be nice to have an excuse to get a compressor.

What have you used, what have you broken?
Whats a good investment and would be useful later too?

Thanks for any tips and links.

3/4" bar and socket + scaffold pole + body weight. Still bliddy hard to shift. 1/2" will just shear off.
Air gun wouldn't touch it.

wd40 and wire brush the nut and into the threads, leave it an hour and do the same, try to get the threads as clean as possible its possible with a half inch breaker, but 3/4 has less flex, ive never needed a scaffold and have undone plenty, try not to force it, stand on the breaker bar bounce a little and wait for it to give 

I use a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 5ft long handle.

The nuts are tight, but a bit of rocking motion as you pull on the handle moved them for me.

I can imagine..
but have you seen the price of a 3/4 breaker bar and socket?

Supposing I was to drive a couple of miles back from a garage,
after they have cracked it for me?

Or do I really need a 3/4 inch socket set in my life?
I used to have one years ago and it was useful sometimes.

 

Maybe get the garage to do it, the later ones are mega tight compared to the early version nut .Last time i tried i was using 3/4 bar and socket and long scaffold and couldnt do it. Gave up and realised the bearings were still ok. Driving back with them cracked off a bit would be ok, pin in though.

I managed to pick up a slightly disheveled Norbar torque multiplier a few years back, which makes these hub nuts a piece of cake. It’s essentially a small gearbox that goes between your torque wrench / breaker bar and, in this case, your 46mm socket. It has a calibrated 5:1 ratio, so if you input 1 full rotation at 100Nm you get an output of 1/5 of a rotation at 500Nm. The only fiddle with it is setting up something suitable for the multiplier’s reaction arm to push against, such as a jack stand or, in the image below, one of the other hub nuts.

I tried everything to remove the nut on my earlybay. Scaffolding pole etc nothing worked.

I ordered the empi tool and soaked the nut every night with WD40 for a week until the tool arrived.

It took a good 10 minutes of repeatedly whacking it from different angles but it finally came off with that tool.

With how tight my one was on I seen no other way to remove without the tool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have broken 3/4" drive Britool breaker bars on them. Can be a totally seized especially from those who run without hubcaps.

Funnily enough I had to tackle the ones on the syncro the other day.
Right side came off after cleaning up the threads and pluggasing it and using the impact gun on it. 
Passenger side wouldn't come off at all, I tried everything that I had available still didn't budge. So I got fed up after about 3 hours and drilled it in two and it still wouldn't budge til I whacked it with a drift.
 

I used the Empi spanner hammer thing and it worked with wheel on the ground but had to use a standard steel 14" wheel.

It's always worth a try to tighten tight nuts even tighter - not always but sometimes your get a 'crack' and then releasing them is a bit easier.

I picked up a large spanner from an old member on here - years ago.  It has a tube on to extend it a tad - and I used a gas pipe over the top of that (6ft of gas pipe is blardy heavy in its own right).
 

Ahhh I wondered how on earth that Empi could be used,
I do have some original 14" wheels stashed away, great!

I was wondering though, all that bashing..
would that maybe not good for the bearing housing?

I was just looking at the Empi tool before I read the posts,
and thinking what a waste, what could I use it for..
and thought I could weld up as a special tool!

Make it into a socket with a scaffold bar welded to it.
I am supposing it would be perfect metal to stick weld?

I made some years ago when I had a truck scrapyard,
lots of rusty nuts to crack there, I learned a trick I can share:
When the fat blokes hanging on the end of the bar,
tap the side of the socket with a nice little hammer,
it does the crack, quicker than using purely the torque.

Anyhow I will get to the plus gas and thread cleaning now.

I think it could damage both the bearings and the beraring housing. I've taken the bearing housings round to my local garage to replace the bearings for and will let you know if I've knackered the housings. The next problem I've got is trying to re- torque the hub nuts to 500nm. The Empi thing definitely shouldn't be used for re- tightening

If you leave the wheel fitted, and in contact with the ground, then I doubt you’ll do much damage to the bearing housing, as you’re effectively hammering against the wheel and hub as an anvil. The bearing housing likely gets much worse from knocks and potholes in the road.