Club 80-90 Forums

Yes, whilst it's all clamped together by the nut, the dismantling shocks would be absorbed by the whole assembly.....

You might need someone pressing the brake to prevent wasted force from the wheel turning; I remember a certain Syncro specialist in Scotland had a braced square wheel with an extended foot for use by one person with the b tight rusted up ones

Ah ha!
Like making two special spanners both 8ft long,
one with the empi tool welded on the end,
and the other to bolt to the wheel studs!

I havent even tried it yet,
it might be loose!

No such luck, it was tight.

Trip to the local tractor repair shop this morning,
thought they would have the biggest tools!
Friendly bunch of people, cracked it in a jiffy.
They just could not believe how hard it was though.
Four foot breaker bar with a scaff pole on it too,
I had to stand on the brakes as a chock wouldnt hold it..

Topped that by selling me a very reasonable socket set,
and inviting me back to press the bearing.
 

If I recall correctly, I don't think you need a press for the rear bearing.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303664728180 ... SwvyxfROVa
this is what I used  . Hit it with a lump hammer and should work .

Yes I have something similar,
but my wheel studs are too long.
I'm going to cut it and weld it one day..

Success, the bearing carrier is off.

I followed Jeds video tutorial,
but was not too happy about whacking the bearing housing,
to get it off past the splines, thought it would damage something.
I felt better packing between the housing and the trailing arm,
and then tapping the end of the splines back inwards.

clift_d wrote: ↑01 May 2021, 13:10 If I recall correctly, I don't think you need a press for the rear bearing.

That would be good, I will have to read up..

it's a lot easier with a press, don't forget the bearing fit for the inner bearing, let that set before packing with grease and fitting seal and be very careful to get the depth position of the outer race right, there isn't a  stop in the housing and it's possible to press it in too far

Thanks. Love the good advice.
Yes bearing fit, how long for it to set?
Where is the right position, how to gauge it?

As I have left the drive shaft in place,
and just moved the brake plate assembly to the side intact..
I worry about getting the splined shaft back in the bearings.
The manual stresses to press it in carefully dead straight.

Jeds bash it off and back on method is what I was aiming for.

Check the spacer tube slides easily on the shaft, they can deform, Brickies sell them.

Thanks Baz,
it was fine..

I have got it back together a couple of notes to add to Jeds video method..
there is so many ways for dirt to get into the wrong places this way,
that I wouldnt do that again unless everything was spotless,
including the inside of the wheel arches.
And the inside of the trailing arms! Not likely.

When sliding the bearing assembly over the axle splined end its not easy,
and the thought of whacking it on is not realistic.
It is so heavy it would need a massive hammer, and theres nothing to bash against.
As the weight of the driveshaft is not that much.
Anyhow I persisted and had it most of the way, not the last inch,
that was achieved by putting the drum on temporarily as a puller, tightening the nut.
Having got that far I had the brake assembly to put back on..
which Jeds way has not been disconnected (the short cut)
And he instructs to bash the splined shaft in to get it off,
but simply says do that in reverse order to reassemble..

Well I am not about to push the splined shaft back in now having only just got it through,
so I mulled disconnecting the brake pipe, ..the hydraulic one was unfriendly,
fortunately the handbrake cable was easy, and allowed the assembly over..

Then it was plain sailing and the bearing play is good again.

But the horrible noise, that I took to be the drum grinding on the back plate,
is still there.....

Oh my, 
at points I have been despairing, at other times happily achieving..
but the disappointment is painful.

The drive shaft seemed all good just by feel,
but is that all it could be now, I just cant understand it..?

Its both a clunking occasionally and sometimes a roar grating metal on metal.
I will take out the split pin and see if after the drive the castle nut can tighten further.
Then put the tools away, weathers turning tomorrow afternoon and I am working outside.

Anyone got an idea what to check?

rollercoaster wrote: ↑02 May 2021, 19:00 But the horrible noise, that I took to be the drum grinding on the back plate,
is still there.....

Went out for a longer drive, rather anxious..
but no grinding noise now, settled down?
Fairly certain it was backplate rubbing.
Perhaps I distorted it a bit when I removed it.

Next step will be back wheels off the ground,
(its got decoupler) get the rear end spinning,
and have a really good listen up close.