Club 80-90 Forums

A common problem I know, and I've read through previous threads.

Had the initial problem after having the rear brake shoes changed and the handbrake tightened. Took it back to the garage but whatever they did failed to sort the problem and decided to try another garage that I use for my car. The guy here stripped down the rear brakes and re-set everything - he said the handbrake was all over the place and the whole thing was a bit of a mess. Drums looked good, apart from a slight nibble on the centre hole where he said it looked like it had been put on a bit too roughly. He didn't think it was an issue though.

Took the van for a drive from Bristol to Stroud and the pedal pulsing had gone!  Great news until after about 30 minutes I could smell the brakes heating up and had to pull in to the services, where they were literally smoking! I obviously took it back and the mechanic was great, said he knew he'd pushed it a bit to get a good hold on the handbrake and took a couple of clicks off on both sides.

No more binding but the pulsing is back worse than before!  Confused by this as although a smidge too close and binding he had cured the pulsing the first time - how can taking a couple of clicks off both sides lead to it returning so badly?!

Any help before he has another look would be much appreciated.

I had a similar problem with the pedal pulsing , I ended up doing a full rebuild on the rear drum assemblies.
New drums, shoes , springs , rear plates( probably not necessary but they were shot) slave cylinders and flexi hoses. Pulsing gone. An extreme cure I know but I think It was well worth it considering the age of the van etc.

Check your wheels and tyres.

I had it after one rear brake partially seized on - upon closer inspection the drum had warped. New drums were cheap enough + replace cylinders etc as above.

Can you feel the pulsing through the pedal with light pressure ?

If so it could be warped front discs, or a distorted rear drum.

As you say it was OK for a while, then I would supect one of the rear drums isn't quite central, espacially after reading your first post which suggets that the centre of the drum,or possibly the hub is work..

Thanks for replies all. Have checked wheels and tyres and all okay.

A whole refurb does seem drastic but might be the solution if the mechanic can't sort it on his next go. It was fine before the change of shoes and fiddling with the handbrake which makes me think it's a set up problem rather than parts.

Currently it pulses at all speeds. Previously it was pulsing mainly when coming down from 40mph+ and decreased the more pressure you applied.

Have priced up a few parts from Brickwerks whom I trust totally. Big difference in price between genuine and aftermarket drums and back plates. Anyone any experience of either/both. I know they say pay cheap pay twice but also know Brickwerks wouldn't stock stuff that wasn't of good quality.

I used all cheap parts from Brickies with no problems . Been fine for last 24 months .

Cheers Dazco. Good to know as there’s quite a price difference!

Just to add, years ago I used cheap slaves from GSF, bleedin pants , seals blew within weeks . That's when I stopped using GSF car parts.

So having priced stuff up and the big differences are with the drums, back plates and cylinders. I'd appreciate any advice anyone has on whether to go genuine or not with some/all of these. What am I paying extra for? Is it longevity, performance or name?! Noticed the genuine back plates are thicker and finished differently but not sure what the consequence of this is. Cheers (and realise I'll probably get a range of views here!) 

Thicker back plates will mean significantly greater service life. Thin ones will rot pretty fast. Cheap cylinders will fail fast. Drums, dunno. There was a post above saying they had bought brickies cheap drums and they were ok...

Whose going to do the work...?