Club 80-90 Forums

JB weld, available in fast set, or better 24 hour set varieties.

If you do need to use it you'll find that mixing it and smudging it on by hand will minimise any need for post set clean up

Yep. I agree. Just watching a clip where a guy made a cylinder head for a rotivator purely from 4 packs of JBWeld.
Will order straightaway.

I have fixed a cracked cylinder head on an air compressor with it. About 5 years ago now,that lasted while the head gasket failed in the usual way (easy fix).

Could only find it online. Delivery Weds. We are camping in Hampshire and Devon on Thurs until 20 Sept. So the slowest head seal replacement continues on my return

Perhap this is the culprit instead?

You are looking carefully

You can of course fix that but I doubt that has been causing a problem, it isn't close to the combustion area and there are no signs of migration.

Yeah l know! lt would be nice to find the exact reason for pressurised coolant. A kind of aha!! moment to be truthful.

I just dont want to put in so many hours' (Maxine is getting concerned lm getting consumed by this minor rebuild...minor! Cheeky!) in to this, fit it and have same symptoms.

Will add a bit of JB Weld to it as well.

Sunday lunch to deal with now.

Regards
Stuart

Go back to the first post.

Clean combustion chambers indicate steam cleaning on 1 and 2.

I seem to recall some gooey stuff at the bottom of the barrels. If that has moved, the clamping force on the barrels is reduced which could allow combustion gases to escape into the coolant jacket.

937carrera wrote: ↑30 Aug 2020, 15:20 Go back to the first post.

Clean combustion chambers indicate steam cleaning on 1 and 2.

I seem to recall some gooey stuff at the bottom of the barrels. If that has moved, the clamping force on the barrels is reduced which could allow combustion gases to escape into the coolant jacket.

Good point. And a valid reason too. It looked like the same stuff used to seal heads. Let's hope cleaning everything and all new seals is the answer.

Im really looking forward to replacing heads and torquring up correctly with (new acquired) beam torque wrench now. Then on to replacing seals either end and setting end play. Have found some shims that l measured today. .0.03mm and .0.034.

Kind regards and thanks for answering my numpty questions

Stuart

Couldnt resist a quick tinker...
Pulley seal. Flush with cases or all the way home? Haynes reads either. What is the best?

Look at your pulley. If it's grooved with wear from the seal, fit the new seal so it rides on a new smooth bit. If it's not grooved, flush or just below will do fine.

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Thanks. Good info.
With regards
Stuart

Another issue. Bolt on right from PAS. Bolt on left is Non PAS. PAS bolt locks out about 8mm from tightening against pulley.
Non PAS is fine. Am l doing something wrong? 1.9 DG crank runs PAS pulley surely? Just use 1.9 bolt?
Help!

Yes, it should fit. Must be crud in the threads, or something down the hole.

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I was just checking on Etka. One can only hope it isn't the remains of an old broken pulley bolt.

I removed the single v pulley myself. Not snapped bolt. Looking into the crank end where bolt would thread it looks as if there is a ridge stopping the longer PAS bolt going further.
Is there a difference between 1.9 and 2.1 at the end of crank pulley? Should l just torque 1.9 bolt to 1.9 setting and stop fluffing about?
Regards, as always,
Stuart