Club 80-90 Forums

Can the sleeve be replaced over piston without removing piston?
Afterall most single cylinder engines work on the same principle. Just pinch each piston ring as it meets sleeve on it way down. Ive got a revolving engine stand so gavity is a player.
I want to replace lower seals (will replace jacket seal, top and fire seal too) without faff of removing pistons.
Regards
Stuart

not really the waterjacket gets in the way when doing the second liner, its hard enough on an Aircooled with trying to wiggle even a homemade narrow ring compressor around the studs

Thanks Andrew. So l now see
First silly question out of many to come.
Regards
Stuart

Is that really remants of lower seal ? Or has previous rebuilder used a mastic gun?

Yuk, too big for bottom seal, think John Wayne has been at it

weimarbus wrote: ↑24 Jul 2020, 13:47 Yuk, too big for bottom seal, think John Wayne has been at it

Me too, Andrew. And he rides the plains of Essex

Hidden under loads of gunk

So lve pulled out the piston nearest the waterpump using a nut on threaded rod to pull out gudgeon pin towards hole for waterpump. I inserted a small piece of wood in between piston and side wall to stop sideways force on the conrod.
Took me two hours. Used a bit of heat too.
I was concerned l may damage something so was extra caution. But all okay in the end.
Whats the best way to get pin out of next piston?
Regards
Stuart

Have a read here

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=164888&hilit=piston&start=15

... and of course itchyfeet has a number of threads, but more difficult to find them these days

Cheers David, lm reading so much recently my brain is overloading and lm forgetting what lve read.
Thanks
Stuart

So its basically the same as piston 4. It was really tight though.
Remove gudgeon pin circlip and using puller through waterpump hole.
How did you address lateral pressure on conrod? Im lead to believe they are delicate. And really not keen on slide hammer approach.
I think l will grind down a nut and feed through centre of pin. Add wood to prevent sideways pressure and use the puller method again.
Regards
Stuart

maxstu wrote: ↑24 Jul 2020, 19:05 How did you address lateral pressure on conrod? Im lead to believe they are delicate.

Not something I was worried about..... at all

The first type 4 engine I rebuilt I simply used a brass drift. Remember, they shouldn't be that tight so will come out easily by using threaded rod to wind them out.

937carrera wrote: ↑24 Jul 2020, 19:10

maxstu wrote: ↑24 Jul 2020, 19:05 How did you address lateral pressure on conrod? Im lead to believe they are delicate.

Not something I was worried about..... at all

The first type 4 engine I rebuilt I simply used a brass drift. Remember, they shouldn't be that tight so will come out easily by using threaded rod to wind them out.

I agree. Was not expecting pin to be so tight. Had to use heat to help.
I gained my limited experience from mostly single cylinder motocross bike. The pin normally pushes by hand.

they are always a little bit tight, the circlip creates a bur in the piston, if i remember correctly vw garages had a 'special tool' reamer to remove this and make life easy, but hard to justify for a one off build

Use a hot air paint stripper gun to heat the piston crown the gudgeon pins should then be easy to remove.