Club 80-90 Forums

Hi people, thanks for the help of forum members on another thread (and pm's) I managed to get my 1Y engine to start up yesterday.

Bad news is, I'm now pretty sure the head gasket has gone. I spotted some oil in the coolant reservoir after a few bad starts yesterday (wouldn't idle) and when i checked the dip stick this morning, it barley registered? After removing a coolant line this morning, a thick mixture of oil and coolant came running out. I guess that's where my fresh new oil is now going I won't be trying to start it again then.





To say I'm disappointed, is a huge understatement right now, but i bought the engine blind (trusted the guy as he was a fellow T3 owner) and that's how it goes.

Any way, I've come too far to stop now and I'd like to know what peoples advice/thoughts are? I'm willing to remove the head and try to get some quotes for skimming it? But as I'm no mechanic, am I just throwing money down the drain? Is this engine worth more time and money?

Appreciate any advice people have got.

Cheers,
HC.

I've just been told by a friend that if it is the Head Gasket, it may not need the Head skimming? Just a new gasket?

My only experience was with an old "Non VW" car when i was a teenager. When the head gasket went on that one, the Head had to be skimmed also.

Mr VW he say "no skimee"

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Mr VW he say "no skimee"

Interesting, I will have to remove it and inspect anyway. Do you think there is enough space to remove the cylinder head without removing the engine again Oldie?

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Mr VW he say "no skimee"

So do most manufacturers, buy anyone know why and what the outcome is ?

davidoft1 wrote:

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Mr VW he say "no skimee"

So do most manufacturers, buy anyone know why and what the outcome is ?

Apparently it's to do with Ra (Roughness Average) and HIP (Hot Isostatic Pressing). People seem to do it regardless though?

If there is no visible wear or damage, I will most likely just put another gasket in and see how it runs. Anyone know if the engine (Diesel) needs to come out again to get the Cylinder Head off?

I’ve had hundreds done and never had an issue

The Hairy Camper wrote:

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Mr VW he say "no skimee"

Interesting, I will have to remove it and inspect anyway. Do you think there is enough space to remove the cylinder head without removing the engine again Oldie?

I have never tried it in situ, not with the 1Y inlet manifold on for certain there isn't enough space.
As to not skimming I should think that VW has enough experience of their engines to be able to say that their diesel heads must not be skimmed. I doubt that you could get the correct head gasket to suit a skimmed head and the correct piston protrusion.( There are only 3 thicknesses AFAIK )

davidoft1 wrote:I’ve had hundreds done and never had an issue

Were your compressions correct? How did you achieve it on hundreds of engines?

New head gasket may solve the problem especially if it hasn't been run for long but there may be erosion of the head or block. Sometimes head gasket failure is due to people not doing the head re-tightening after 1000 miles when the head has been off before.

Bentley says CS, KY and JX Heads can be removed while in Van. Hopefully this applies to 1Y's too. Manifolds are most likely going to have to come off I think.

Can the Injection pump stay on while I remove the head? Don't want to have to play around with pump timing right now too!

The Hairy Camper wrote:Bentley says CS, KY and JX Heads can be removed while in Van. Hopefully this applies to 1Y's too. Manifolds are most likely going to have to come off I think.

Can the Injection pump stay on while I remove the head? Don't want to have to play around with pump timing right now too!

You will have to do the pump timing as the timing belt has to come off but the pump stays in place

Oldiebut goodie wrote:

davidoft1 wrote:I’ve had hundreds done and never had an issue

Were your compressions correct? How did you achieve it on hundreds of engines?

New head gasket may solve the problem especially if it hasn't been run for long but there may be erosion of the head or block. Sometimes head gasket failure is due to people not doing the head re-tightening after 1000 miles when the head has been off before.

Erosion of the head isn’t all that common and erosion of blocks due to head gaskets is very very unusual


Machine shop Can skim anything, correct gasket ( different thickness of gaskets are aftermarket). Bolt together as normal , spent 5 years doing snapped cambelts and blown head gaskets, all ran well and fine , compression isn’t effected by skimming flat heads only heads with combustion chambers.

davidoft1 wrote:

The Hairy Camper wrote:Bentley says CS, KY and JX Heads can be removed while in Van. Hopefully this applies to 1Y's too. Manifolds are most likely going to have to come off I think.

Can the Injection pump stay on while I remove the head? Don't want to have to play around with pump timing right now too!

You will have to do the pump timing as the timing belt has to come off but the pump stays in place

If the pump stays in place, can I not put a pin/bolt in the timing slot to keep it set? Will put everything to TDC before removing belt.

The Hairy Camper wrote:

davidoft1 wrote:

The Hairy Camper wrote:Bentley says CS, KY and JX Heads can be removed while in Van. Hopefully this applies to 1Y's too. Manifolds are most likely going to have to come off I think.

Can the Injection pump stay on while I remove the head? Don't want to have to play around with pump timing right now too!

You will have to do the pump timing as the timing belt has to come off but the pump stays in place

If the pump stays in place, can I not put a pin/bolt in the timing slot to keep it set? Will put everything to TDC before removing belt.

Yes but the timing is set against the crank and cam With the cam gear giving a way to allow movement In the next to be adjusted out before tightening the cam pulley

davidoft1 wrote: If the pump stays in place, can I not put a pin/bolt in the timing slot to keep it set? Will put everything to TDC before removing belt.

Yes but the timing is set against the crank and cam With the cam gear giving a way to allow movement In the next to be adjusted out before tightening the cam pulley[/quote]

I might actually know what you mean I'm no mechanic but I loosened the cam pulley to set the timing belt correctly when i replaced the belt last.

Will see how i get on. If i have to learn (and buy pump timing kit) how to time the pump, i may just stick the old injector pump on next time too. Baxter seems to recommend the older pumps anyway.