Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all - new to this forum. I am actually a Land Rover owner/tinkerer but a friend has asked me to service and look over his 1985 T25 with a 1.9 carburettor engine. It's been parked up over the winter (which I'm never convinced helps with much!) and has developed a bit of an issue with cutting out. I have a few questions that I'd be grateful of some help with:

1. It's running quite well but am going to give the engine a service. The dizzy cap was fouled (I'm surprised it was even running to be honest) and plugs a little sooty. The idle speed was also slightly too low - I've adjusted that up a little. However, it randomly cuts out when load is taken off, usually dipping the clutch at a junction and so on. I have had a look at vacuum pipes (there only seem to be a couple of thin ones?) and can't see any holes or cracks. I've sprayed some WD40 around the engine whilst running and it doesn't appear to be drawn in - so am thinking that there are no leaks. If anyone wants to correct me, happy for that. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? Seems to do it intermittently although, did become more apparent when the engine was warmer...
2. The fuel inlet hose is a little perished so will replace that just in case there is a pin hole sucking air in. Does anyone know if this is 5.6mm internal diameter? I forgot to check before sending him on his way.
3. I've had the pump drawing fuel into a vessel. Seems to be good flow and is clean. Will replace filter. Also removed fuel cap to check for air lock. The gasket for the pump looks a bit cruddy but it doesn't look like this affects the seal - again, please correct me. Am going to replace this gasket anyway.
4. Whilst rummaging around underneath, I noticed two flexi-pipes that appear to be connected to the exhaust that then go into the engine bay and seemingly disappear into the body - what are these? Unfortunately, I didn't study too much. Looking at the rear of the van, they are on the right hand side, just behind the air filter box.
5. Are the ignition modules problematic on these? My RRC has one on the side of the dizzy and they are renowned for giving up without warning. This one is detached to prevent heat damage - can they cause issues? I'm wondering if this might be linked to my first point?
6. And finally (at least for now!), where is the best place online to get parts? I've been looking at JustKampers - seems comprehensive.

Thanks in advance and apologies for the bombardment in questions. I've used Land Rover forums for years and found them to be wealthy in advice and knowledge - hope it's the same here!

Hi, and welcome to the forum. You will find pretty much everything you need to know (and a lot more you don't) either here directly or by referring to the wiki, which I'm told is still accessed by a link top left of the website version of the forum page (I use Tapatalk on a phone so don't see any of that stuff).
I'll just answer your last question first as it's the most urgent: Brickwerks is all you'll need for virtually all your parts. https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I haven't bought anything from JustKampers for years as (...careful mode engaged) the quality was known to be, er, unpredictable. It might be better now, but I'll never need to find out.
As for running issues, sounds like you've done most of the right things, so doesn't leave much. I'd be having the carb off looking for a blocked idle jet, and crud in the float bowl. Hope you sort it!

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Hi and welcome to the forum! I'll have a go at 2, 3 and 4, check all the fuel lines as if you've found a perished one you're probably going to find others, they're a fire risk. There should be only one fuel filter which should be just after the fuel tank underneath, if there's a filter in the engine bay you should remove it as that's another fire risk. Good idea to change the fuel filter and, as above, brickwerks is the place to go for parts. The 2 flexipipes coming from the exhaust are the warm air hoses going to the air filter box on an early exhaust. These are for cold climate starting and aren't really needed in the uk climate, most of these have been removed or rotted away and they were not added to later exhausts. Theres loads of info on here, in the wiki and searching, good luck with the van!

Morning Landrover personage
At least you will be familiar with breaking down !

We will assume it’s DG engine with a peirburg carb . You need to confirm or deny this !

As has been said, first job is replace all the rubber fuel line in the engine bay , leave the hard plastic from the filter to the engine bay it will be fine unless you can see any damage obviously ....
the pump is a diaphragm type , driven by a push rod, the length of the push rod is critical , it must be 100mm no less.

Also pay special attention to the cone filter in the inlet of the carb , it is hidden .
Once you have got that lot looked at , give it the old hand over the carb to pull any bits out of the jets .

The brake servo pipe off the left hand side of the inlet manifold is prone to leakage at the flexible pipe and often a leak there goes undetected with the WD check as you need to really soak it because of the braiding .

Morning, all.

Many thanks for the replies - all very useful.

Certainly used to getting the spanners out with a LR. The VW seems quite basic but still not as basic as I'm used to! I wasn't entirely sure if the exact engine spec so was waiting for someone useful to tell me! A quick Google of DG Pierburg shows what I recall looking at when it was here. He's taken it away again whilst I order parts. On the subject of the carb - facing the engine, there is a small stainless "rod" that sticks out, with a plastic tube cover on the end. What's this? Also you describe "hand over carb", I've heard of folks doing something like this but haven't myself - what are the steps? You can take a LR carb to bits in about 17 seconds so never done fancy tricks like this!

Picture by itchyfeet

Is this any help?

Get it started with carb top ( referee to as beret) off And hold hand over top whilst reving , causing suction against hand
I don’t recommend it if you are not used to doing it tho...


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Aha! Very useful. I used a screw on the back for adjusting the idle though? Small screw with a tamper proof cap on the top? It sat on the bump stop type thing...

picture by itchyfeet

Rear view, just in case you needed it

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Hmm... Can't seem to see the screw I nipped up for the idle...

Mocki wrote:carb top ( refered to as beret)

ooOOooh, get you, all la-de-da like! We call it a pancake oop norf.


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ajsimmo wrote: ooOOooh, get you, all la-de-da like! We call it a pancake oop norf

Och aye !

I'm from Staffs originally so maybe I'll call it an Oatcake