Club 80-90 Forums

I am thinking about replacing my exhaust lots of information here: https://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/E ... _Suppliers

I was just wondering is it possible for an Amateur to attempt this, I have no access to a welder and have read a lot of horror stories about studs snapping. I am think this might be best left to a professional. I would also like to replace the studs with stainless steel- i have seen these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252682340788 but not sure if these will fit a VW t25 1.9 DG?

Many thanks

I suppose it depends how confident you are feeling. Clean up all the old studs/bolts with a wire brush and give them a soak in plus gas for a day or two before trying anything. I had mine replaced a few years ago and not knowing how long it had been on i decided to let a garage do it, he let me buy my own exhaust. I had two studs snap off which he managed to remove with the engine in. You could try going at it one nut at a time if you fancy it but if they start to feel "funny" stop because it's probably going to snap.
David.

To be honest, it is far easier if you are going to replace the complete exhaust system and studs anyway. And no welding required. It means you can cut away manifolds close to the heads for starters.
You may find a mixture of bolts and some nuts on studs. I cut off the old system as close as possible to bolts /studs. This gives you much more working room to ease off stubborn fittings. And only two out of eight snapped.
Use lots of penetrating oil and heat. So get a quality blowtorch.
Tools suggested:
Patience. Dont rush in. Doing this job yourself, instead of giving it to a mechanic, saves you mucho dineros. And much satisfaction
Blowtorch
Angle grinder with metal cutting disc
Plusgas or similar
Molegrips
13mm sockets and ring spanners.
If you do snap a stud dont worry. We can talk you through that event too.
Check out Wilki and internet for advice.
Oh! And another thing. If going stainless buy a Brickwerks system. Not cheap. But best one going.
Regards
Stuart

Thank you both for the tips I will take a look and see. I think I would want to replace everything apart from the silencer and tailpipe which are fairly new.

Where's your location?
Going mild steel or stainless? You have the later system with cast knuckle right?
Ive done a couple myself ..it is very rewarding.
If a bolt or stud is totally seized just nip off the nut or bolt head with a cutting wheel and remove whats left of exhaust pipe header. This will leave about 8mm to get molegrips on. Plenty of lubricant. And heat. If that fails. Cut of remaining stud and drill out. Do not go deeper than 22mm though or head will be feeked.

Always do a trial fit with new components beforehand.

Good luck
Stuart

I am in Ely near Cambridge.

I just looked through the file of paperwork I got with my van and it looks like the previous owner it looks like the following has already been done on the exhaust.

20/3/08
gaskets 81063/256-203
and 2 x 82484/256-904
connecting pipe at £50
silencer box £95
tail pipe £24.73
remove old studs..... £25

then 31/8/12
it looks like a full GSF exhaust was fitted
labour was £160 but it doesn't say anything about the studs

then 21/7/17
I had a good used exhaust silencer fitted and a stainless steel tailpipe fitted.

I think the silencer still looks okay so I will have a closer look at take some photos but I guess the brickwerks on would be best to fit at keep my current silencer and tailpipe and maybe replace at a later date with SS.

Thanks

Sounds about right. Are the exhaust heads knackered?

I owned my first camper for ten years. Complete replacement two years' into ownership. Then another silencer and tail pipe six years' later on.

Studs or bolts may be good on your camper. Are they all studs? Start adding plusgas every day. But dont drive straight after

Forgot to mention, lf you can cut into side of exhaust nuts with a dremel or angle grinder to a depth just before touching studs, then, getting the angle just right, often you can knock them round or split the nut with a very sharp cold chisel. Saves replacing studs

I had this job done by a garage on my early water cooler in 2018 and it was slightly problematic, they used a induction heat tool and I had 1 stud snap off, the most awkward one into the thermostat housing, but had all the studs removed and replaced with new steel threads with copper nuts.

Exhaust was replaced with a S/S from VW Speed shop, I thought I didn't want to be walking this bridge of a job again so went S/S. All in all including fitting I paid about £750, sound really good as well.

if you going to attempt this take your time, this and trailing arms is probably up there of the most difficult jobs to do on a T25!

nesty wrote:I had this job done by a garage on my early water cooler in 2018 and it was slightly problematic, they used a induction heat tool and I had 1 stud snap off, the most awkward one into the thermostat housing, but had all the studs removed and replaced with new steel threads with copper nuts.

Exhaust was replaced with a S/S from VW Speed shop, I thought I didn't want to be walking this bridge of a job again so went S/S. All in all including fitting I paid about £750, sound really good as well.

if you going to attempt this take your time, this and trailing arms is probably up there of the most difficult jobs to do on a T25!

Your back, Steve! Where did you go from Oct-March? Or dare l ask?

So your studs should be 12 years old, and the nuts 8 according to the paperwork you have.

Might be alright - depends what quality was fitted, and if you have mild steel, stainless or copper flashed nuts (or just balls of rust that look like nuts!)

I’d start with a really good inspection of each nut - some are easier to get at than others, it will be the ones that are hardest to see and reach that will be the worst!

Pop up some photos of your (exhaust) nuts and I’m sure people will give you odds on the coming off!!

Hi again
I took some photos of the exhaust yesterday, the nuts look pretty bad and it looks like on some the stud/nut has been replaced by a bolt, any comments/ advice would be great, thanks again.
Sorry there are quite a few to me they all look pretty bad! and I am a bit confused by the ones that look like they have a wash fitted after the nut?

Some of them don’t look too bad and should clean up with a wire brush and some plus gas. The ones holding on the push rod covers look a bit rough though, to me it looks like a nut with a captive washer put on the wrong way but I may be wrong. It’s quite usual to have a mix of bolts and studs.
David.

jrt wrote:Some of them don’t look too bad and should clean up with a wire brush and some plus gas. The ones holding on the push rod covers look a bit rough though, to me it looks like a nut with a captive washer put on the wrong way but I may be wrong. It’s quite usual to have a mix of bolts and studs.
David.

Agreed. In fact the best ive seen. Lots of plus gas and a bit of heat will do the trickm
Regards
Stuart

maxstu wrote:

jrt wrote:Some of them don’t look too bad and should clean up with a wire brush and some plus gas. The ones holding on the push rod covers look a bit rough though, to me it looks like a nut with a captive washer put on the wrong way but I may be wrong. It’s quite usual to have a mix of bolts and studs.
David.

Agreed. In fact the best ive seen. Lots of plus gas and a bit of heat will do the trickm
Regards
Stuart

I'd agree - you might be really unlucky, but those look in top notch condition compared to some I have seen. You can still tell they are nuts/bolts and they clearly have flats on them still!

I'd give them a quick squirt and give them a gentle tweak - reckon they'll come off without too much of a fight.

The ropiest looking one might benefit from some firm use of some mole grips, but still looks doable.

Yet another agree..................

its a bad state of affairs when we are all looking at this post wishing our nuts were as good as yours