Club 80-90 Forums

Steering and front suspension getting overhauled during lockdown.
All ball joints getting replaced together with new discs, bearings, shields, ARB and lower control mounts.
Got a lower ball joint removed from the upright.....via a sledge hammer
So any techniques for fitting new one? I have neither a ball joint press or suitable bearing press.
I reckon scrupulous cleaning of area and small taps with a blunt tipped cold chisel on the new ball joint collar until snug enough to add clip. Grease or no grease?
You views please
Regards
Stuart

Well that was easy. One swift knock with a small sledge hammer. Well cleaned and lubricated before whacking. Remember to remove ring circlip first.




One shiny hole waiting for new lower ball joint

Well l decided to push on despite lack of response. Where are the usual helpful fellow forum old salt's when needed?
Lower ball joint in freezer for 48hrs. Hole waiting for joint is cleaned to squeaky clean and greased. Tools ready....so off l go!
Balanced on wooden blocks and with a snub-nosed cold chisel hammered around collar into place. Took a bit of time but quite rewarding.
The large circlip needs grinding down to fit, but all done and dusted in 30 minutes.
Regards
Stuart

You've done very well! Always a press job as far as I've seen. Getting them out is good fun as you say- bfh !

slowcoach wrote:You've done very well! Always a press job as far as I've seen. Getting them out is good fun as you say- bfh !

Cheers slowcoach....
Getting a ball joint out was very rewarding. It was a first for me, and I always enjoy using hammers.
You can see the blunt chisel marks on the replacement, but no damage to worry about. In the final stages l used a large bench vice to get it home properly, so the circlip recess was visible underneath. It actually took longer to file circlip to fit.
Then l did a silly thing. Greasing the taper, l pushed the rubber boot too far down and internal top clip got caught under the waist line so l had to remove yellow ringclip and pull off boot and reset it in correct position.
Wont do that again...

A small E D I T...note the semi circular cut out to left in picture. Before knocking out joint mark its position on the axle. Its important to place new joint in exactly the same position. The back of the ball joint is shaped.....see second pictureon next page. If you get this wrong the joint will not seat correctly to add circlip. Also circlip needs grinding to seat properly. To about same width seen near the eyes.

maxstu wrote:Well l decided to push on despite lack of response. Where are the usual helpful fellow forum old salt's when needed?

Glad you got it done, I didn't see the thread and have not done the job so pretty useless really. I would offer a thought that with the balljoint in the freezer, you could have also have put the lower arm in an oven to get the best clearance for a non press approach. Traditional old school approach

Over the past couple of days I've sent a couple of PM's to some of the old salts who seem to be absent for the moment. PM's haven't even been opened which is a bit unusual, especially as with a bit of sleuthing I know one of them is fine as they have been on the 80-90 fb page Quite strange

Back to shortly David. Having a bit of gip get calipers over new discs

937carrera wrote:

maxstu wrote:Well l decided to push on despite lack of response. Where are the usual helpful fellow forum old salt's when needed?

Glad you got it done, I didn't see the thread and have not done the job so pretty useless really. I would offer a thought that with the balljoint in the freezer, you could have also have put the lower arm in an oven to get the best clearance for a non press approach. Traditional old school approach

Over the past couple of days I've sent a couple of PM's to some of the old salts who seem to be absent for the moment. PM's haven't even been opened which is a bit unusual, especially as with a bit of sleuthing I know one of them is fine as they have been on the 80-90 fb page Quite strange

Well without wishing to wake the gremlins I have been less dependent on this end of the forum for a while having probably caught up (so far ) on my find fix repair/bodge penances and have been amusing myself on general chat. I too missed this post and probably have this job in the timeline having foolishly mentioned it. Lets hope the gremlins are still tucked up in bed.

I rather guess that FB might be the villain in this piece. I prefer the probably false sense of togetherness on a forum.(shrug imoji)

maxstu wrote:Back to shortly David. Having a bit of gip get calipers over new discs

You shouldn't need to use such force on the piston, hand (maybe and knee) force should be enough. Assuming you don't want to do a strip down and rebuild of the calipers, then I suggest pressing on the brake pedal to force the piston further out and "work" it

Use an old pad to protect the piston face too

I was going to release bleed nipple too, but it looked very corroded. Also caliper not too healthy corrosion wise
Taking cap of brake fluid reservoir helps. Trouble was the piston kept slowly creeping back out. So by the time l had new pads in place. In the got piston to max position and had plenty of room.
Last, (poor me ) my wrists are suffering acutely from carpal tunnel and lve lost a lot of strength in them. Likely from messing about under camper for last week.

937carrera wrote:
Glad you got it done, I didn't see the thread and have not done the job so pretty useless really. I would offer a thought that with the balljoint in the freezer, you could have also have put the lower arm in an oven to get the best clearance for a non press approach. Traditional old school approach ?:

Too scared to remove ABS sensor pins in case l break them. They are non existant. Unless other model VW fits too?
Last time l saw one for sale, about two years' back, scene tax heavily applied, £140.00.

Hmm, the piston should not be pushing back out. The fluid pushes the piston out, when the brake pedal is released the pressure is removed and the rubber should retract the piston. If it's working the other way round then brakes will bind.

More working required, as you don't have a caliper wind back tool (Machine Mart near you, as ebay delivery may be variable ???), then try the method I mentioned, using thigh muscles to add to the arm muscles.

I would clean the bleed nipple up, put some heat into it and let plus gas soak in. It won't do any harm, and if you decide to replace it you will at least be starting from a better position. You do not want to break it off. Use a six sided socket too, with a bar for "max feel", rather than maxstu

Understood on the ABS connections, everything is vulnerable, unless it is new / fresh. A bit of heat from a butane torch could have been used on the arm, but make sure there are no petrol leaks / vapour around and well ventilated..