Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,
1.9dg
Removed dash, and heater matrix to replace the blower..
All back together.
Coolant temp around normal.
Ran up to temp a few times, coolant level is ok.
Yet no heat from the heater..
Could it be an airlock?
Heater controls seem to be ok.
?

Get back under and check the hoses to the heater. If they are not hot then water is not circulating in that part of the circuit. If I remember correctly that [art of the system operates independently of the thermostat.

yep must be an airlock, make sure heater is in the hot position when bleeding

jas915 wrote:yep must be an airlock, make sure heater is in the hot position when bleeding

Having owned many cars over the last 35 years the bleed process on this bus is crazy...

Lol

We will assume that you have checked and confirmed correct operation of the hot cold control under the van above the spare wheel ?

To be honest , if you had switched it to cold and clamped the return pipe before removing the matrix you would have had to do minimal bleeding as long as you refilled the matrix before refitting , and obviously it must be on "hot" ( tap open) to bleed it

Mocki wrote:We will assume that you have checked and confirmed correct operation of the hot cold control under the van above the spare wheel ?

To be honest , if you had switched it to cold and clamped the return pipe before removing the matrix you would have had to do minimal bleeding as long as you refilled the matrix before refitting , and obviously it must be on "hot" ( tap open) to bleed it

Not changed the controls so presume all is well there.
Clamped both pipes to the matrix before removing, didn’t try to refill the matrix upon refitting..
Will bleed again....

100leelee wrote:

Mocki wrote:We will assume that you have checked and confirmed correct operation of the hot cold control under the van above the spare wheel ?

To be honest , if you had switched it to cold and clamped the return pipe before removing the matrix you would have had to do minimal bleeding as long as you refilled the matrix before refitting , and obviously it must be on "hot" ( tap open) to bleed it

Not changed the controls so presume all is well there.
Clamped both pipes to the matrix before removing, didn’t try to refill the matrix upon refitting..
Will bleed again....

Visit the simple first , get under and make sure the hot/ cold valve is working and in the hot position .
There is little that will cause no heat from the heater , it’s open circuit from the engine, if the coolant is hot in the engine and moving, it’s moving to the heater if the valve is open

Mocki wrote:

100leelee wrote:

Mocki wrote:We will assume that you have checked and confirmed correct operation of the hot cold control under the van above the spare wheel ?

To be honest , if you had switched it to cold and clamped the return pipe before removing the matrix you would have had to do minimal bleeding as long as you refilled the matrix before refitting , and obviously it must be on "hot" ( tap open) to bleed it

Not changed the controls so presume all is well there.
Clamped both pipes to the matrix before removing, didn’t try to refill the matrix upon refitting..
Will bleed again....

Visit the simple first , get under and make sure the hot/ cold valve is working and in the hot position .
There is little that will cause no heat from the heater , it’s open circuit from the engine, if the coolant is hot in the engine and moving, it’s moving to the heater if the valve is open

Thanks
Will do...

Water pump is on the list to change, just because it appears to have a slight leak...
Presume though if the pump is that poor not to push water through the heater matrix the van would overheat pretty quickly...?

Perhaps..... but the water pump can still circulate coolant round the engine as the heater circuit is not in series with the engine, so no impact on engine cooling.

Why not do the water pump now, then you'll only have to bleed once

937carrera wrote:Perhaps..... but the water pump can still circulate coolant round the engine as the heater circuit is not in series with the engine, so no impact on engine cooling.

Why not do the water pump now, then you'll only have to bleed once

Was kinda putting it off due to the apparent hassle in changing it...

Thermostat ordered to go with the pump I have....
If this van ever stops coming up with new jobs I will be amazed...
New interior here in 3 weeks...
Still got insulation and dry lining to finish... along with now water pump replacement!!!

I guess it’s a early water system from your last reply , just remember if it is early ,preparation is key , clean the Allen heads out well so the tools fit well and use plusgas and a ideally start the engine and get the water pump and thermostat housing warmed up before you start trying to undo the bolts , snapping them will cause you problems , so don’t over do it .

100leelee wrote:If this van ever stops coming up with new jobs I will be amazed...

Just keep coming here, a guaranteed source of inspiration for jobs on any T25...... and then you get reliability