Club 80-90 Forums

More then 90% sure exhaust is getting into my coolant system ( https://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic. ... 7&t=169048" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ) the time it will take to be 100% sure is better spent dealing with my problem so I will take the cylinder heads off. Think the best will be to replace the heads with new ones, so I hopefully can spend more time driving the car.

Hope I can get some advice on what I need to buy. Looking at https://www.vanagononline.com/articles/ ... placement/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and it looks like a good start on making my shopping list, but do I really need new push rod tubes, expandable push rod tube, hydraulic lifers, cylinder head nuts ???

Engine Gasket Set https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/engine-gas ... reinz.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/engine-gas ... lring.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is vitor reinz better or just more expensive?

AMC head https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_b ... 100cc.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/cylinder-h ... -bare.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Then I also need

Inlet Valve - T3 / WBX / 8mm Stem https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -stem.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Exhaust Valve - T3 https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -stem.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

? And some new tool? Or send the parts somewhere?

Any recommendation on what head to buy and from where? And what else should I get at the same time?

Hello,

If you go direct to AA performance products

https://aapistons.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can get off the shelf and ready to go heads..

Here is a video..

(for an air-cooled, but it is the same thing...without the plumbing.. )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZLeYcpMFps" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

hope this helps..

Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote:Hello,

If you go direct to AA performance products

https://aapistons.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can get off the shelf and ready to go heads..

It's hardly direct, buying them from AAPerformance in the US, and paying way over the odds (plus taxes), when they just sell AMC heads like everyone else in Europe!
Just shop around the European suppliers to see who is cheapest to you, as the product will be identical.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

loads of spare heads here, got some great used parts from Andrew recently.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=169163" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

AMC heads are known to have chocolate valves so if you buy new you need to change the valves.

Personally I'd go VR gasket set, it's what I use now as a preference over Elring

Thanks for all the input!

Just watched a video on youtube VW T3: AMC Cylinder Heads (check Exhaust Guides) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jo4IuY6NoJs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and then read what go westy have to say about the subject ( https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=58" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ).

Is the best approach having a machine shop ream and fit the valves from the AMC or just replace them? Ordering from gowesty will cost more than £1100 I was already thinking the heads from coolairvw was hurting at £750

I don't think the AMC valve guides are bad just the valves so you can just fit new valves.

itchyfeet wrote:I don't think the AMC valve guides are bad just the valves so you can just fit new valves.

Is this something I can do myself with the right tool? Or do I need a machine shop to help me?

What kind off new valves is recommend to buy?

Yes of course anybody can change valves with a valve spring compressor. New valves would need lapping it with grinding paste.



Lots of us on here buy from Brickwerks because we trust them to sell quality parts.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -bare.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

you can reuse your old valves springs and collets but you can buy new also

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -stem.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... -stem.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... l?limit=96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Why do you want to replace the heads? Do you know they are faulty, or just in case?
Anyway, as Paul says I have some for sale if you want to save some money. Or if you buy new, you could reuse your original valves.
Just take note of the effort required to loosen your head nuts. If it's too easy to undo one or more (or if you have a broken stud?), chances are it's a failed compression seal due to insufficient clamping force. In that case there's probably nothing wrong with the heads.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Andrew at campershack ^^^ is a very experienced WBX engine builder, he won't sell you duff used heads, unless you are doing a full rebuild it's not worth buying new in my opinion.

itchyfeet wrote:Yes of course anybody can change valves with a valve spring compressor. New valves would need lapping it with grinding paste.

I have never done a valve job before so had to google what is involved in a lapping process and found this video on YouTube https://youtu.be/7GEmuQa3dPY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; seems like something that's possible to do at home and fun to try and learn.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/valve-grin ... ersal.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any experience on what kind off valve spring compressor to buy or is it easy to make something?

ajsimmo wrote:Why do you want to replace the heads? Do you know they are faulty, or just in case?
Anyway, as Paul says I have some for sale if you want to save some money. Or if you buy new, you could reuse your original valves.
Just take note of the effort required to loosen your head nuts. If it's too easy to undo one or more (or if you have a broken stud?), chances are it's a failed compression seal due to insufficient clamping force. In that case there's probably nothing wrong with the heads.

Want to have them ready just in case, staring on this job in about two weeks time and want to know I can get the car running again. If the old heads don't leak I will reinstall them, but want to have a backup. I wanted new ones mainly because I tough it would be easy and reliable, but unfortunately it seems like it's not so easy.

I'm interested in buying a set off second hand heads if they are ready to go inn the car. I already have old heads laying around but didn't know about lapping etc before about 30min ago, will probably not have the tools, equipment, technique and time before I'm ready to work on my car so still looking for complete set off heads ready to go up go inn the car.

Is this tool okey for removing and installing the springs?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Valve-Spring-C ... ay&sr=8-11" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or is this type better

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac000129-cyl ... l-vw-spare" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or this type

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS154-V ... way&sr=8-7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

How many mm span width do I need for the VW t25 heads?

The one I have is not quite big enough but I modified it to work, I can't justify buying another so I can't really comment on anything else.
mine is like this

The problem with this type is the skirt around the valves to the cover, it sticks up and this type of spring compressor has no allowance for a recessed spring and you can see so the spring end of the tool hits the head before it's fully compressed, the overall length is not really enough either so it tends to spring open with the pressure of the double springs.

I will try and measure a head up later, this question has come up before so It would be nice to see which others work.

Coming a bit late to this, but some thoughts for you:

I understand you might want to work out a budget for the rebuild, but you really need to find out what is wrong before talking yourself into spending loads of money.

Have you actually confirmed the diagnosis of a failed seal - as far as I remember it's still only a strong suspicion.

Just because there is a water leak does not mean that there is anything wrong with the heads themselves or valve gear. By all means dismantle and inspect, then replace as necessary, but i am not a supporter of simply replacing everything with new, especially given the variable quality or aftermarket parts.

I have a similar spring compressor to itchyfeet, except mine is about 35 years old

If you are short of time, and need the van back on the road quickly then I understand that may be driving you towards having ready to install components on standby. Be aware that you will probably / should spend much more time cleaning components than actually assembling, and most parts are available overnight. Valve guides will best be done by a machine shop, and they can be booked up / take time to do the work.

Get a compression test done before you disassemble. That will tell you something about the condition of your heads, piston rings and which cylinder is leaking. I use one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-HI-GA ... 3294253417

itchyfeet wrote:
I will try and measure a head up later, this question has come up before so It would be nice to see which others work.

Here you are, not the best pics as the light was failing but the information is there