Club 80-90 Forums

Can't get them out with a 2 foot breaker bar or with a Clarke CEW 1000w electric impact wrench

They were greased when I got the van a couple of years ago so I cleaned the grease off with brake cleaner and I guess they have rusted

Any suggestions other than taking it to a garage?

Have you tried heating them up with a blow torch?

When you refit them I've heard some suggestions that you can use a weak thread lock to prevent corrosion, although this will possibly affect the tightening torque.

Hit them with a lump hammer.

Try tighteming them.

Heat will probably not be your friend on this occasion (the heat will likely go preferentially into the bolt)

The Clarke is rated for 450NM - in reality it will be less, my Milwaukee gun is rated 950NM and I still ended up using a 3/4" drive scaffold bar on rear hub nuts

2' breaker bar is not that extreme either - should be in stock

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... aker-bar/?

I had this problem a few years back, the only solution that worked for me was a six foot scaffold pole fitted over the breaker bar. I supported the end of the socket on a jack stand to prevent it twisting/slipping off the wheel nut whilst I stood on the other end. There was no loud crack just a gentle easing of the bolts as they came free. At the time I was advised to seek out a truck workshop because their air guns work to a much higher pressure. I couldn't go because it was a seized brake on my van that necessitated the wheels being removed. Maybe the AA/RAC could help if you are a member.

I gave in and took it to my tyre fitters as they were open today.

the solution was a 3/4" 2 foot breaker bar, looks like I need to buy one.

My 1/2" breaker bar just bends.

Is your heart not in it today ?

My 1/2" breaker is a Sealey AK730 -- I haven't had that bend on me, neither, dare I say it, have I snapped the 1/2" drive which is the weak point

I think I may have found the reason, front wheels are very hot after a 10 mile round trip, hub too hot to hold you hand on, that's not right

1/2 inch breaker bars always bend, they break otherwise, just stand on the end of the bar and bounce a little, they undo eventually

davidoft1 wrote:1/2 inch breaker bars always bend, they break otherwise, just stand on the end of the bar and bounce a little, they undo eventually

had a scaffold pole on it, it really didn't want to move, anyway it's off now with a 3/4" breaker bar

I put a thin smear of Neverseeze on mine for just that reason.
I've been shot down in flames for admitting to this before but I've never had a stud come loose so I'll keep doing it and ignore the nay sayers.
I wouldn't recommend using GP grease though.

bigbadbob76 wrote:I put a thin smear of Neverseeze on mine for just that reason.
I've been shot down in flames for admitting to this before but I've never had a stud come loose so I'll keep doing it and ignore the nay sayers.
I wouldn't recommend using GP grease though.

If you lubricate wheel stud threads then I understand that the problem is not that the wheel nuts might come undone, but that you might over-tighten them and in so doing over-stress the wheel nuts & studs. To quote from the Bostik Never-Seez webpages:

Never-Seez reduces the amount of torque required for threads, while maintaining the same clamping force.

So if you lubricate the threads and then tighten to the required torque then you will end up with a significantly greater clamping force than VW anticipated.

Good point Clif_d.
Not that I ever torque them up but I don't stamp on the bar either, just a good heave by hand.
Just out of interest and my own curiosity I should maybe measure my "good heave" torque on the gauge at work when it comes back from cal.

I'll just leave this here

My reason not to use anything was based upon the results of vibration testing commissioned where I work and anti sieze compounds did result in bolts coming undone compared to those fitted dry. It may depend on the frequency of the vibration.

And yes you get more stress in the bolt for the same torque and the torque to remove the bolt is much lower than if no compound is used.

Was there a problem with the front hubs/ brakes in the end ?

937carrera wrote:Was there a problem with the front hubs/ brakes in the end ?

I think they have been overheating.

when I tried they were cold but by the time I had driven 5 miles to the tyre fitter they would have been hot possibly making it easier?
when I got home the hubs were too hot to touch and the wheels hot too, no major braking on the 5 miles.

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