Club 80-90 Forums

Hi. I have a late DG case with an early cooling system. I have a temp sender and a spare temp gauge. I was thinking I might use the high pressure oil port (for the BOD) to measure oil temp. I have a new multicore and conduit ready to go in.

The sender I have is about 25mm from seal to face. Would that be long enough to restrict the flow of oil ? Does anyone have a late DG case on the bench who could measure the depth of the port?






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yes I can measure in a while
the temp here may be the highest in the engine because it's just been squashed by the pump.

this switch port has an adapter so that senser needs to me M10x1 or you need a different adapter.

adapter is about 15mm long of which 10mm is thread, the block has about 20mm of thread before reaching the gallery.
In total about 25mm

But remember that your sender is now sitting almost entirely in metal with only a small bit of oil either side and will probably read low.
The metal case is designed to remove heat from the oil.

In my opinion the sender needs to sit in a thin wall thread to minimise the heat loss and be in a large volume of oil.

have a read..
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8209161" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
in the end I removed the bush and used thick plate tapped
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8212925" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Paul. Just looking for a back-up for my dodgy temp gauge. a functioning temp gauge is needed for the CVRT (Irish version of the MOT). I got a 42 relay today and might stick it in and do some soldering to see if I can get the gauge working again.

I have the same sender/gauge as you Ciaraneng and I used a sandwich plate between the oil filter and the block with the sender screwed into the plate.
Works fine and although it's not accurate I get used to what normal readings are so know when it's above normal.

bigbadbob76 wrote:I have the same sender/gauge as you Ciaraneng and I used a sandwich plate between the oil filter and the block with the sender screwed into the plate.
Works fine and although it's not accurate I get used to what normal readings are so know when it's above normal.

Sorry BBB, I missed your post. I replaced the relay control unit and my apart from the LED, my temp gauge now works and thankfully sits pretty much on the mid-point. I'm hoping to get a replacement so that I get a warning light if I drop coolant. For now, I'm keeping a close eye on the gauge.

Good stuff. glad u got it working.