Club 80-90 Forums

Hi guys,

Van passed MOT a few months ago... Nearside Rear bearings needed doing, an advisory was offside rear bearings.

Well would you believe it when driving say 50 and I take my foot off the gas I hear a drone like noise coming from the offside rear. Does this mean what I think it means??

I havent got the wheel in the air yet and checked for play as I read some play is ok, but how to distinguish some with a lot... anyway there is defo a noise.

Had a look at how to do it.... seems like a task. Do the CV joints have to come off?? Had a read at WIKI and looked at Campervan Cultures vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbNPX4C03LI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_EyutHLY2A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any potential pitfalls apart from the dreaded hub nut

I was able to replace both our rear bearings using the same procedure as Jed, so no need to remove the CVs / axles if you're careful.

I basically bought a spare hub with an existing worn bearing, rebuilt this with a new bearing and swapped this into the first side, then rebuilt the swapped out bearing with new and put this into the second side, leaving me with a spare hub for the parts box. This meant that I could spend minimum time with the van up on a stand which was essential as both bearings were replaced with the van parked on the street.

The hub nut is a challenge although there are plenty of different ways of removing and replacing it described online - you'll need to work out which methods you can use. I managed to get hold of a decent secondhand 5:1 torque multiplier cheap so it was relatively easy for me to remove and re-install the hub nut to exactly the right torque. Make sure the wheel is on the ground for final tightening if you're using a bar so you don't do any harm to anything in your drive train.

Bear in mind, if you are strpping a spare hub in advance that you need to re-use the spacer tube from the centre of the old bearing as you don't get a new one in a typical rear bearing kit.

Last piece of advice would be not to try to save a few pennies on the bearing kit - get a decent OEM quality kit, as the feedback I've seen from some is that the alternative bearing kits don't generally last well.

Cheers.

Part on order... we shall see

Just dont re-use the hub nut or be under any illusion that the "torque to tippex" notion actually works.
It doesn't.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

silverbullet wrote:Just dont re-use the hub nut or be under any illusion that the "torque to tippex" notion actually works.
It doesn't.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

Balls orderd kit with no nut from Brickwerks. Better get on fleabay

There are two versions of the castle nut - the newer version can be recognised due to the fact that it has ten slots.

VW recommend that older style nuts should always be replaced whatever their condition. Also, if you have the older style nut then Bentley suggests that the spacer sleeves should also be replaced - BW have replacements here. If you have the newer hub nuts then you can keep the sleeves and the nuts can be re-used subject to inspection - at least according to Bentley.

Tightening torque is 500Nm (360 ft lb) then, if necessary, advance to the next slot to insert the split pin.

Why is the torque settings so much higher for the later hub nut compared with the early nut - 6 slot about 260 , 10 slot 360. ?

Not sure - there's a warning in Bentley that 'Failure to tighten the axle nut to the correct specification could result in damage to the hub / axle splines', so I'm guessing they had some issues with the earlier vans.

Going to tackle this tommorrow.

2 questions, bearing lock, do i put this on the outer or inner bearings??

Also, my torque wrench ony goes up to 250nm, whats the best way to do this?? Saw James video where he stands on a breaker bar. is it 500 divided by my weight in kg??

I convert to ft lb
Then divide by my weight in pounds, and that’s the number of feet I stand away from the pivot point (hub nut) on my bar.

So 500Nm = 360 ft lb

I weigh 11 1/2 st, (161lb) so 360/161=2.2

I stand 2.2 feet along the bar, in the nude.

A bit closer if dressed (which I always am!).

The bar must be horizontal. If it’s not, ask someone to do some trigonometry or something...

Don’t bounce on the bar.

RogerT wrote:I convert to ft lb
Then divide by my weight in pounds, and that’s the number of feet I stand away from the pivot point (hub nut) on my bar.

So 500Nm = 360 ft lb

I weigh 11 1/2 st, (161lb) so 360/161=2.2

I stand 2.2 feet along the bar, in the nude.

A bit closer if dressed (which I always am!).

The bar must be horizontal. If it’s not, ask someone to do some trigonometry or something...

Don’t bounce on the bar.

RogerT,

much obliged...though I did think I had to do it naked

Job postponed....

My breaker bar isnt big enough to receive the socket..

any ideas??

I use a 3/4 inch drive socket, with a slider bar
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gedore-G3287-T ... th=1&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
rather than a breaker bar. Then a scaffold pole over the bar. I did try with a 1/2 drive socket, but the breaker bar just bent. You really do need 3/4” as it’s a sight more than 500 Nm to undo it after it’s been on for a while.

RogerT wrote:I use a 3/4 inch drive socket, with a slider bar
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gedore-G3287-T ... th=1&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
rather than a breaker bar. Then a scaffold pole over the bar. I did try with a 1/2 drive socket, but the breaker bar just bent. You really do need 3/4” as it’s a sight more than 500 Nm to undo it after it’s been on for a while.

Balls, in my impatience I orderd this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK5402- ... QS7CMSD0BV" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have to go to Manchester on Wednesday, and I wont get a chance to fit it now. 50mph all the way for me

A torque multiplier like eBay item 264059487095 just makes it really easy. You put in 100Nm and you get 500Nm out the back.