Club 80-90 Forums

Can anyone advise can i replace the rubber breather hose connectors on the fuel tank in situation or do i need to drop the tank
Thanks guys
1970 cu air cooled 1983

It is best to drop the tank, but it can just about be done if you have small hands and there are no clips on the hoses.

Thanks for the info

Agree with the above, it's a lot easier if you drop the tank, you can also check the condition of the top of the tank to see if its rusty etc.

Ant-t wrote:Agree with the above, it's a lot easier if you drop the tank, you can also check the condition of the top of the tank to see if its rusty etc.

Brake & clutch pipes too

Removed the fuel tank today to do the breather pipes on inspection found a few pin holes on the top middle ,so the tank needs replacing however looked on on well known site and noticed it says
(Please Note: The filler neck on this tank is slightly out to the original spec, and will require careful placement of the fuel filler neck.)

However i want to keep the original steel fuel filler neck so was thinking this will not line up as there will be no play at all .

Found another at the same price on another well known suppliers site and it does not mention the filler neck out of position its the same price barring a few pence

Any ideas need to order a tank ASAP

Did not put the company names as i did not know if that was allowed here

Best to change the old steel filler neck to plastic. Then order the correct tank to suit.

fasteddy wrote:so the tank needs replacing however looked on on well known site and noticed it says
(Please Note: The filler neck on this tank is slightly out to the original spec, and will require careful placement of the fuel filler neck.)

They are all like that as they all come from the same manufacturer. Justkampers just tell you they are "pooh".

You are better off fitting the latter tank and smaller plastic filler neck where the misalignment is not a problem.

This is how bad they are, it is not the hole is in the wrong place but the tank should be flat where the arrow is so it sits against the chassis rail but is tapered so the tank sits too low.

Bigherb are you saying i should buy the the tank with the 48mm filler hole or should i still get the tank with 68mm filler hole and buy the adaptor rubber seal and use the the plastic filler pipe ?

You can do it either way, but if you fit the plastic filler neck you might as well fit the later tank they are the same apart from the neck size.

Got it cheers

I recently refurbed my tank, there was a thin spot with a pin hole which I 'loaded' with weld rather than replace. 2 coats of Vactan on bare metal, 2 coats of Combicolor and 1 coat of Dinitrol, it'll last for years now. Put a photo up so we can have a look at how bad the pitting is.

what2do wrote:I recently refurbed my tank, there was a thin spot with a pin hole which I 'loaded' with weld rather than replace. 2 coats of Vactan on bare metal, 2 coats of Combicolor and 1 coat of Dinitrol, it'll last for years now. Put a photo up so we can have a look at how bad the pitting is.

Obviously strict precautions required to weld a fuel tank !

Cecil wrote:

what2do wrote:I recently refurbed my tank, there was a thin spot with a pin hole which I 'loaded' with weld rather than replace. 2 coats of Vactan on bare metal, 2 coats of Combicolor and 1 coat of Dinitrol, it'll last for years now. Put a photo up so we can have a look at how bad the pitting is.

Obviously strict precautions required to weld a fuel tank !

Or go for a Darwin award

I did not fancy welding the tank there was about 4 pin holes but when i poked into them with a screwdriver they opened up to about 3-4mm for the sake of a couple of hundred £££'s would rather keep my eyebrows lol