Club 80-90 Forums

Ohh metal porn

R0B wrote: ↑09 Dec 2021, 19:22 Ohh metal porn

It's absolutely automotive filth. I'd say this thread deserves a NSFW heading. 

Saturday morning, Hoopers dog class was cancelled, lets get this cam timed.
Chill out tunes on the DAB, because its a faff.
Split pvc hose stops the rods falling over and trying to jab/tangle/chip anything when taking the case half on and off*
Protractor, dial gauge, paint and a sharp scriber to mark the centre line at max lift.
*wooden wedge to lock the cam
Just keep rotating the cam one bolt at a time (always go the same direction!) and trying different teeth until it chimes in...

I also lock the flywheel with a simple strap once I have found TDC, the zero the protractor wheel, rotate the crank to the desired angle (I favour max inlet valve lift at 112° ATDC for both std and my "performance" grinds) then lock it again. It also pulls the crank back against the thrust face, which prevents any unwanted helix angle errors caused by the cam gear and is a lot less bulky than working around the flywheel.

Despite the fact that I’ve played around with cars, motor-bikes, tractors, lawn mowers etc since I was old enough to pick up a spanner. it’s only when I read this sort of stuff that I realise how little I actually really know about the internal combustion engine!

Transforming domestic steel door hinges into oil baffle gates. One side cropped off, holes welded up and dressed down, straightened, rivet pins removed and free-running - aka loose - 4mm wire refitted with ears to limit their opening angle (no more than 60 degrees opening required otherwise they take too long to shut and become less than useful)

PeteandNikki wrote: ↑11 Dec 2021, 14:12 ...it’s only when I read this sort of stuff that I realise how little I actually really know about the internal combustion engine!

I have to agree.
Amazing to see the detail and precision in your work.
I spent most of New Years Eve night reading the whole thread - looking for motivation to refurbish my DJ.

Now I realise, that I am just playing in the kiddie-pool compared to proper stuff like this.

The only thing that I have to add is -
The wasserboxer engines are not your typical internal combustion engines. They are a breed of their own.
The Oetti engine "after-thought" design appears to be a dozen steps beyond that.

Keep going, loving this thread.

It would be easy to say that I am starting to regret this sump baffle, its going to be a bugger to install. But Magnus Magnusson rules apply:
I have started, so I will finish.

The wbx6 really is an afterthought engine, for the sake of a few mm here and there it could have been a lot more durable. But it is what it is. Strangely, the early Subaru EA pushrod engines are closely based on the wbx design and even the EJ engines shared the same bore spacing of 113mm.

Anyway, I'll get there soon. Closing the crankcase will be a big moment.

Still not enjoying this job. Endless trimming and fitting but its coming together. I may have to split the baffle and mount part of it on the oil pickup, not sure atm.

Hi there,
Just wanting to know whether this thread of engine build is now complete, as if I’m
following things correctly, the engine is now actually mounted in the bus as per your other thread Our Syncro Caravelle? Will that be the thread to follow going forward?
Just asking and thank you for the amazing info, skill and knowledge you share with us all!

Engine not finished yet, a few final details to sort out. Once the exhust is made I will be doing the final assembly and then getting it running.

Things have ground to a halt as I had to put the empty engine case with heads fitted etc back in the bus while it went away for exhaust fitting. Might get it back in August, but in the meantime I did receive a pair of custom-made split shims to correct the over-cut thrust face on the rear main bearing.

Finally, its got an exhaust! So once it stopped raining every weekend since its return, I took the pupes off and got engine mockup out to get it all clean and the final build actually happening.

After yet more cleaning, I found that both heads are stamped 15,0 (15.0) which should be the combustion chamber cc. It needs checking but should give a SCR of about 10.3:1 with DJ pistons (aka the full S spec) which with the cam and exhaust should give a solid 180PS and 280Nm, maybe 190/300...

Volumes check out. 15cc chamber +7.5c in the fire ring volume ( 1.1mm used/compressed ring) = 22.5cc and a new WR7DC+

Something that I rather wish I hadn't started but it is coming together now. A lot of dressing and faff!
These are oil windage plates, mostly to prevent the crank from throwing excessive amounts of oil up the 4/5/6 side pushrod tubes and filling the rocker box at higher rpm but also useful for generally keeping the oil in the sump when cornering hard or when on side slopes.
These will be fixed to the horizontal baffle plate.