Club 80-90 Forums

I've got to remove a rear trailing arm. Where's safe to put the axle stand once I've jacked it up? I usually use the trailing arm pivot point.
And can I remove the rear axle block/bearing carrier from the swing arm without having to undo the mega tight axle nut?? doesn't make reference
in the Haynes.

Regards

Mark

Either on the rear jacking point (if they are in good nick) or on the cross member that runs across the van just by the pivot/jacking point.

I think the nut needs to come of if you are swapping everything over to a new arm as you need to get the bearing housing off, for which you'll need the drum out the way.

You can get the axle / brake hub off by removing the 4 big bolts that go into the swing arm, that's if they aren't rusted in tight ! I used a ring spanner on the bolts and rested the other end on a trolley jack and let that do the hard work.

Perfect! Thanks chaps. That's my weekend sorted.

Regards

Mark

multisi wrote:You can get the axle / brake hub off by removing the 4 big bolts that go into the swing arm, that's if they aren't rusted in tight ! I used a ring spanner on the bolts and rested the other end on a trolley jack and let that do the hard work.

Mine were rusted in tight, had to clean them with a wire brush and then hammer on a tight socket. Axle nut was fine as I’d already invested in a scaffold pole for my 3/4” tommy bar.

As to the axle stand, I use the cross member inboard of the jacking point, it I know my jacking point is useless.


As for the bolts holding on the swing arm, I used an angle grinder, and a hacksaw, but apparently a reciprocating saw with a carbide blade is easier and more agile to use, and cuts through it in minutes. The bolt will likely be rusted solid in the bush.

Good luck

Thanks for the info. Van now up on stands and 1st round of penetrating oil applied.

Mark

Believe me, penetrating oil won't do any good. The inside bolt should come out ok but the outside one will need cutting off. It seizes into the steel rod in the bush. Doesn't matter if you get the nut off the bolt as it won't come out. Have done both sides on mine. Used a breaker bar and a 650nm air gun and wouldn't budge. Hacksaw doesn't take too long

1mm slitting disc(s) use the appropriate PPE and careful of the petrol lines IF it's petrol.

Ian

I'm prepared for a fight. Angle grinder check, cutting discs check, new bolts check, swear box check!

Mark

Safety goggles?

Yep! Check, second swear box for when the first one is full check

As I recall it’s tricky to get a cutting disc into the space inside the outer swing arm mount to reach the bolt, hence the reciprocating saw suggestion. Not a problem for me as my swing arm mount was fubar so I was happy to slice it up too. Hacksaw for the inner bolt, mshaw says it doesn’t take too long? Aye, that’s why time is a relative concept!

I would recommend using a reciprocating saw too. I used a cutting disk in an angle grinder and it only just had enough depth to get through the bolt. There's also less chance of slipping and cutting into the trailing arm.

Thanks Roger and James, noted.

Mark

RogerT wrote:As I recall it’s tricky to get a cutting disc into the space inside the outer swing arm mount to reach the bolt, hence the reciprocating saw suggestion. Not a problem for me as my swing arm mount was fubar so I was happy to slice it up too. Hacksaw for the inner bolt, mshaw says it doesn’t take too long? Aye, that’s why time is a relative concept!

Ha ha

Well I am the man that says to his wife 'just going out to the garage to do a job. Won't take long'. Two hours later and I'm done

To be fair though. Hacksaw through the bolt probably tool about a half hour. Like Roger my other mount was cut off with a cutting disk as the swing arm mount needed replacing. Still had a pants soiling moment though when the cutting disc 'stuck' for a second. Good job I had a good grip on it along with my welding gloves. Could have made a mess of myself.