Club 80-90 Forums

Had to drive back home for 3hrs without any clutch. Poo bum few moments but all was fine. Need this fixed ASAP as need the van next weekend. What costing should I be looking at as I don’t want to be robbed blind for a rush job thanks all

Sorry. 1985 1.9dg 5gear

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you can buy the 3 part clutch kit from £100 it is 2 hours labour for a garage ( £50 quid per hour back street garage) , quite simple to remove the gearbox.

A garage will cost more for the clutch becuse they will probably add a handling charge and then there is VAT on labour

To do it yourself expect to take all day but it's not too challengine as a DIY mechanics job.

I assume you know how to check it's the clutch and no something else like slave? or oil contamination from a leak?

I wasn’t able to check it last night as it was so late but I will be checking it when I get home this evening to make sure it’s not the master cylinder or a leak etc. I just needed to know when I was phoning around just how much I should be expected to pay so watch this space and I’m sure I will be asking for help. I just wish I had time in the day to be able to do it myself but unfortunately I do not as I think is the job that I’m capable of doing just incapable of making more time. Thanks ever so much as always


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As with all things T25 it is not always as simple as it first appears. If the CV bolts haven't been off recently they can cause delays, getting the slave cylinder off can be tricky, there's the chance of breaking the pipe.

Many garages do not like working on old cars and vans because of the above as they cannot guarantee the '2 hours' for the job so they will give an astronomical quote so you go elsewhere IF they quote at all. Also expect to pay a premium on the clutch and any other parts as they are 'obsolete' as far as the garage will be concerned. I would personally supply the 3 part clutch kit (there are 2 different sizes on the petrol models 215mm and 228mm depending on age and cc) ... https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/d ... s.html?p=2 and also a set of CV bolts ... https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/d ... r-kit.html

Where-abouts in the country are you ? (fill in your profile details )

Ian

Leigh on sea in southeast is where I’m from. What you thinking?


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So I’ve just checked the top up under the dash and all is fine there. Checked the movement on the slave cylinder and seems fine with no apparent leaks. It’s not slipping so don’t think it’s clutch, can’t get it in gear with engine running using the clutch peddle. Would I suddenly just get an air leak?


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Da dan wrote: can’t get it in gear with engine running using the clutch peddle.

The input shaft has probably got stuck on a failed spigot bearing (in the end of the crank shaft) can you get the gears with the engine off ?

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... l-all.html

Cheap as chips but sadly it's a gearbox out job.

Ian.

Surly though I would not be able to take it out of gear if that was the case? I can still select all the gears when engine is off and drove home without it by just using the engine revs to change gear


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Engine off the input shaft isn't spinning.

Just to add my ten penneth worth when i lost gears in December-came on suddenly started with first then within 10 minutes had lost them all i could still select them with the engine off. After help on here and the facebook page it turned out to be a goosed master cylinder letting air in the system. Could it be that?
David.

Thanks all. Master cylinder leaking and going to change slave as well any tips welcome.


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See it wasn't as bad as you first thought
Master pretty easy but you have to feel your way around because of its location. Same with the slave, give the nuts/connections a good brush beforehand and give them a squirt of plusgas. I had to take mine off with the solid pipe attached and undo it in a vice.
http://campwestfalia.com/vanagon-clutch ... placement/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
David.

[THUMBS UP SIGN] thanks


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Hi don't know if yours is the same as 2 lt Aircooled slave cylinder, recently did ours got at it by taking the rear wheel off ( axle stands etc) and getting at it that way. A good tip when replacing is to push the bolts up through the bracket then stretch a tight fitting o ring over the threads down to the bracket this will hold the bolts in place while you slide the cylinder over them. Best use new bolts if you can get some, easier turning on the threads, good luck.

And stainless nuts and bolts preferably - will save grief the next time