Club 80-90 Forums

Hello All,

I posted a while ago about my engine (a 2.1 Ltr Waterbox, 1991, AutoSleeper Trident) shutting down while driving, and saying that the AA man thought the battery was failing due to the fridge which was on at the time (this turned out to not be the case). Well, although the camper eventually started again, when I tried to return home from that journey, the engine did the same and it wouldn't start at all, even though it was turning over. The second AA man thought it was the coil, so once the AA transported me back to Wales, my mechanics installed a new coil and all appeared OK. Appeared is the operative word!

I have not really used the camper since the new coil was put in, but I started the camper today and after 7 minutes of running, she stalled and I haven't been able to start her again. She turns over really well. The battery has a lot of juice and the starter motor obviously works, but with a new coil already installed I have no idea of what might be the problem. If anyone here has an idea I'd really appreciate it. If I can get the van started tomorrow, I'll take it to my local mechanic, but input from anyone here would be welcome since my local garage is not that experienced when it comes to old VW campers. They're great blokes but their skills are more with contemporary cars.

By the way, all of the wireing seems to be OK, so I don't think it's the leads from the distributor to the plugs.

Thanks,
Sal

I remember the earlier post- have you bought a multimeter yet ?

For an engine to start you need air, fuel and a spark at the correct time. Air isn't usually a problem, so that leaves fuel and spark.

Let's assume you have petrol in the tank for the moment.

To check for a spark, you need to remove a plug lead, put a spark plug into it (handy if you have a spare / used one), hold the metal side of the plug against an earth, usually engine metal is best and have someone crank the engine over. You should see a nice blue spark. Yellow is a weak spark.

That';s the easiest test to do at this stage.

I see you have a 2.1 engine - is it on carbs or injection ?

The camper is fuel injected. I presume that that can be a problem too?

Everything can be a problem, just different diagnostic approach and solutions.

Spark plug test is still the first thing I would do.

Well.., I shall be looking her over this morning, and I hope I get some kind of enlightenment!

It's probably hall sensor or ignition amplifier, but you need to know that it's a spark issue before you start spending money on replacement parts

The spark is fine, but the ignition module needed to be energised, as the bloke put it. The camper now runs, but I'm getting the ignition module replaced. Fingers crossed.

salgarfi wrote:The spark is fine, but the ignition module needed to be energised, as the bloke put it.

TBH, I don't understand how the spark could be fine if the ignition module wasn't working. Sounds like there was a poor connection.

salgarfi wrote:The camper now runs, but I'm getting the ignition module replaced. Fingers crossed.

Sounds like a plan, and having a new ignition amplifier isn't a bad thing, perhaps ask for the old one to keep as a spare to carry round with you, they are easy to change.

I would ask the garage to make sure the van runs for a while, just in case the breakdown was caused by something heat related.

'The spark was fine' was a bit of sloppy writing on my part. But saying that, yes, I've got a plan.., fingers crossed!

I had a similar issue a while back when the connector to the ignition amplifier was slightly corroded. The van would cut out suddenly and refuse to start for a while. Maybe worthwhile giving the connector a squirt of WD40 and plugging it in and out a couple of times. What are the actual symptoms before it stalls. i.e does it backfire or splutter first or does it just die without prior warning.

WD40 is in fact an insulator, better to use contact cleaner, it's not expensive stuff.

Highroller wrote:I had a similar issue a while back when the connector to the ignition amplifier was slightly corroded. The van would cut out suddenly and refuse to start for a while. Maybe worthwhile giving the connector a squirt of WD40 and plugging it in and out a couple of times. What are the actual symptoms before it stalls. i.e does it backfire or splutter first or does it just die without prior warning.

I don't know if the ignition amplifier is the same as the ignition module (or monitor?), but that has been ordered and it might arrive tomorrow. Concerning symptoms, there was no spluttering or back fire, just a loss of power. Once stopped, she'd crank but there would be no ignition. I think what you describe is similar to my problem!

Well.., in case anyone wants to know how things have progressed. My camper has now had a new coil and a new ignition module, and though it ran briefly, it now cannot start. It's the same thing, she turns over beautifully, but there's no ignition. The girl is wearing me down!

Sounds like an intermittent problem, they're the worst.

Back to basic diagnostic, check you have a spark again to decide if it's a spark or fuel problem.

Do it now while it's in failure mode


update - as you had it done at a garage chuck it back at them

Are you sure the engine is getting fuel? I only say that as I went down a rabbit hole with my ignition system a while back when my engine was cutting out and not restarting. It turned out to be fuel based in the end...