Club 80-90 Forums

apologies if someone has asked this before but I couldn't find reference to it.

I seem to have fractured my clutch line 2/3 of the way to the back as it runs down the chassis, consequently I have pumped all my clutch fluid onto the drive way. Can't find any reference to this online. I was working on the gear linkage and I wonder if I caught it somehow. Is this common?. Should I repair the copper tube or replace the whole lot? Is that a big job to do?
Thanks
Dave

Brickwerks do a repair kit so you don't need to replace the whole length.

Thanks multisi. I looked and there are copper and cunifer. Any idea which is best? Also does this mean the existing pipe is brittle and if so does that bode badly for brake pipes e.t.c?

I bought the one with the cunifer. The new pipe end is double bubbled for the cunifer so you can connect it straight to the flexi pipe from the slave cylinder. I would check to make sure that you can split the pipe from the flexi first as I couldn’t when I did mine and ended up having to buy a new one.

Highroller wrote:I bought the one with the cunifer. The new pipe end is double bubbled for the cunifer so you can connect it straight to the flexi pipe from the slave cylinder. I would check to make sure that you can split the pipe from the flexi first as I couldn’t when I did mine and ended up having to buy a new one.

Ok, that sounds good. Did you replace that all the way to the front or was it a repair? If so, do you have to remove the fuel tank?

I replaced the copper clutch pipe at the point just before it runs through the chassis and used the compression coupler that came with the kit so approx. only 8-10 inches. This was on a late 2.1 WBX. The only reason I had to replace the pipe was because I couldn’t split it at the flexible pipe due to corrosion.

I had to do this after kinking my pipe getting the gearbox out.

The Brickwerks kit is great. You can choose where to join the pipe, take a good look at the section over the fuel tank as that was more corroded on mine than some of the exposed sections. In the end I replaced mine from the slave cylinder, over the tank and across to the right hand side.

Get a couple of spare fittings - just in case it doesn't seal first time for you. As advised above, make sure the connection to the flexi pipe is in good condition as well before you order.

Ok, that's great, I have ordered the brickwerks pipe and I will let you know what disaster befalls me (if any). Just out of interest, should I worry about my break pipes?

Davidb0208 wrote: Just out of interest, should I worry about my break pipes?

Do you know how old they are? If not, then try a bit of curiosity, if not full blown worry...

RogerT wrote:

Davidb0208 wrote: Just out of interest, should I worry about my break pipes?

Do you know how old they are? If not, then try a bit of curiosity, if not full blown worry...

Hi Roger
Looks like they are(badly) replaced copper with a joiner half way down the chassis. I say badly because they appear to free floating and not clipped above the fuel tank. I think, for this season I will leave them and then replace the whole lot next winter including my now repaired clutch line from front to back, removing the fuel tank (again!) in the process. I'm making a judgement call that they will be ok for a bit as the copper is newish. I won't trust them full time though!
By the way, that cunifer clutch repair kit from brickwerks is good stuff isn't it? I was expecting it to be tough to mould but it just worked well in the hand with no need for pipe benders. Perhaps that would be different if I had to do tight bends though. Dave


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My camper failed it's MOT last year due to "an unsupported length of brake pipe above the fuel tank". It turned out actually to be the clutch pipe. The MOT tester took ages between finishing the test and writing it up. He had to research whether the unsupported length of pipe was actually a failure. I managed to drop the tank, and clip the pipe to the same side as the brake pipes by re-routing it at the front below the radiator.

nevill3 wrote:My camper failed it's MOT last year due to "an unsupported length of brake pipe above the fuel tank". It turned out actually to be the clutch pipe. The MOT tester took ages between finishing the test and writing it up. He had to research whether the unsupported length of pipe was actually a failure. I managed to drop the tank, and clip the pipe to the same side as the brake pipes by re-routing it at the front below the radiator.

Well, mines due in April. Let’s see if gets through. Thanks for the heads up though Neville.



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nevill3 wrote:My camper failed it's MOT last year due to "an unsupported length of brake pipe above the fuel tank". It turned out actually to be the clutch pipe. The MOT tester took ages between finishing the test and writing it up. He had to research whether the unsupported length of pipe was actually a failure. I managed to drop the tank, and clip the pipe to the same side as the brake pipes by re-routing it at the front below the radiator.

hi Neville
Interestingly, the van passed its mot today despite the unclipped brake pipes above the fuel tank. I’m still going to replace the lot from front to back after this season though. I now have joiners in both the clutch and brake lines and that makes me nervous
Cheers
Dave



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Thanks for getting back on this, I have found over the years there is a lack of consistency with MOT testers. I guess some see things others do not, I personally like having a thorough tester check my vehicles each year. I t gives me a sense of security knowing they have had a really good look.

I had advisories one year, left unfixed and not been mentioned again, yet things highlighted that have been on the van for years. Last year they noticed that the two springs on the rear have differing amounts of coils. Not a fail they said but they thought it should be mentioned. I had had an MOT fail years ago for a broken rear spring that was replaced for me by a reputable VW specialist, so this has been on the van for ages unnoticed.