Club 80-90 Forums

I need a decent pair of ratchet crimpers for insulated terminals. The cheapo pair I currently have don't squeeze the terminal properly, which results in a lot of loose failures.

I'd rather not pay for a pair from Facom or Knipex, but will if I need too.

All of the reviews I've read on Amazon etc, haven't really helped.

Suggestiins please

Solder.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Solder can fatigue when used in an application with vibration

fixed that for you

No vehicle manufacturer has ever soldered wiring looms that I know of.

Depending on the crimps you are using something like this may be OK.
https://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?op ... gKp1PD_BwE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A properly done crimp forms a molecular bond superior to soldering, a badly done crimp is not worth doing, so if you havn't got the proper ratchett tool you're better off soldering.
these are pricey but do a proper job.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/0533279/

They were all soldered before crimping was invented!
No fatigue if carried out correctly with support from wire insulation to terminal.

Wikipedia:

According to one of the crimp tool manufacturers, the development of standardized crimp tools and procedures occurred on this timeline.[2]
1940's All terminations were soldered (Hard-wired)
1953 AMP introduced Crimp Barrel Terminals
1957 Cannon Brothers experimented with Machined Contacts with Crimp Barrels
1960 Buchanan introduced the MS3191-1 4 Indent Crimp Tool with a Ratchet[3]
1963 MS3191-1 was published as the first Crimp Tool Standard
1965 MS3191-4 introduced by Daniels Manufacturing Corporation
1969 MIL-T-22520 published and dated to replace all previous specifications
1974 Changed to MIL-C-22520, and many Slash Sheets added
1996 Changed to MIL-DTL-22520
2010 Changed to AS22520[4]

I'm not that old

I guess they moved away from soldering because ???

Speed of assembly.

They moved away for cost and speed for sure, but if crimping is good enough for aviation then in should be more than good enough for a camper

Reliability
Anybody can be shown how to crimp properly but have you seen poor soldering.
A good crimp needs the barrel to be full so the correct size of crimp is required . then the correct tool need to be used.
This is a good crimp for automotive use
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/repl ... hort.7852/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Scroll down you will see the Raychem cimps
The heat shrink shrinks to support the wire

That is a nonsensical argument - if you can be shown how to crimp properly you can be shown how to solder correctly.
Have you seen poor crimping.

Oldiebut goodie wrote: Have you seen poor crimping.

Yes lots, it’s bloody awful, crimp to tightly you create hot spots crimp to loose and the wires vibrate out.

But done correctly it’s perfectly alright for flight

Crimping is easy to teach and easy to learn, soldering to the correct IPC Standards takes a long time to learn and in today’s world companies don’t want to pay to teach people

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Solder.

I do, but in some cases I prefer to crimp.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:That is a nonsensical argument - if you can be shown how to crimp properly you can be shown how to solder correctly.
Have you seen poor crimping.

It's the argument put forward to apprentices in the airspace industry when you are taught.
You can inspect crimps easy but it's not so easy to inspect a solder joint, when you have 1000 to check.

Crimpety crimp

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