Club 80-90 Forums

Hey guys sorry to post this on here but I have been trying to get the wiki to work and it won't. Our 1.9 dg petrol 1984 westfalia joker has a very small oil leek which I have traced back to where I think is the push rod tube on the right hand side of the engine. I have changed the oil and filter and it only leeks once we have been out for a drive and we stop and it's only a very small amount which stops after a few drops. I'm thinking it's time to change the push rods as they must be getting on a bit now but is it ok to drive for now. The engine runs smooth no smoke or loss of power no overheating she actually runs very smooth

Why change the rods if all is good, if the leak is bothering you can purchase a telescopic tube to save you from removing the head.

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NicBeeee wrote:Why change the rods if all is good, if the leak is bothering you can purchase a telescopic tube to save you from removing the head.

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Thank you will do that was just worried if it was something bad but rest of the engine seems in good working order we bought her a month ago she had been sat for two years and we have only just got her on the road as we have been working on the body work but she runs like a dream

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... so-ct.html

£21.36 less discount, plus P&P.

Ian

or the cheaper version

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac1094109ae- ... -big-mouth" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

leeks grown in the ground

and if shes been sat for two years, leaks from pushrod seals are far more likely. I wouldn't let it scupper any holiday plans but it'll need doing and ideally not in deep snow

I assume its been treated to new oil since it was stood all that time

CovKid wrote:and if shes been sat for two years, leaks from pushrod seals are far more likely. I wouldn't let it scupper any holiday plans but it'll need doing and ideally not in deep snow

I assume its been treated to new oil since it was stood all that time

Oh yes she has been really treated new oil new plugs and air filter new light switch and soon fitting our new fuel tank. As you can imagine the oil was horrendous jet black and like treacle. She runs very well with the new oil best add the push rod seals to the list of jobs just getting the rust treatment done first before the winter sets in which to be honest looks like now

Do you need to drain the oil to change the rods?


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Da dan wrote:Do you need to drain the oil to change the rods?

Ideally yes. ... if it's been stood for a while it can take 2 or 3 oil changes to get the engine running sweet ... if the oil's good just catch it and put it back in.

Forgive me if I'm wrong but I think there is some confusion over push rods and push rod tubes. The push rods themselves would not cause an oil leak. It's the push rod tubes, or their seals which allow oil to leak. The tubes can rot through, as happened on my engine. The seals can also perish. It's a relatively straight forward job to change the tubes and seals if using telescopic type. Just trying to help!

That's what I mean. I have one with a small leaky seal. Just wondering.


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The Haynes manual states that the tappets have to be re-adjusted following a push rod tube replacement. Is that strictly necessary (I don't quite see how removing and replacing the rocker shaft would affect the original settings) ?

I have a leak from the NS but have yet to determine wether it is a pushrod seal or the rocker cover gasket. I will degrease the entire area, dry it off then run the engine and try to see where the leak is but if anyone has a better method let me know.

I suppose technically you do need to adjust them but as they are hydraulic they will take up 'some discrepancy.' As for finding out where leak is your idea is fine. Just my opinion!

AngeloEvs wrote: (I don't quite see how removing and replacing the rocker shaft would affect the original settings) ?

Nope, me neither.

Ian

Ian Hulley wrote:
£21.36 less discount, plus P&P.

Ian

How do you get a discount?