Testing hall sensor
Posted: 17 Jul 2017, 17:01
The responses to what2do's question in "Testing hall sender - idiot's guide" were very helpful - but before I buy a new sensor, I would like to check a few more things.
I carried out the test that bigherb posted:
Remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system.
Remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug.
Switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead.
If you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault.
I got sparks, so the fault seems to be with the hall sensor.
Next I swapped the king lead for a plug lead and earthed the body of the plug (a bit like bigherb's video) and I still got sparks at the spark plug when I scraped the wire along the engine (but now I had an extra hand free!).
Next I reconnected the 3-pin-plug to the distributor and turned the distributor shaft by hand - no sparks this time, so fault still likely to be the hall sensor.
Then I probed the back of the 3-pin-plug (whilst it was still fitted) measuring voltage between each wire and earth and found...
12 volts at the red/black wire (outside pin)
0 volts at the brown/white wire (outside pin)
4.47 volts at the green/white wire (centre pin)
Rotating the distributor made no difference to the 4.47 volts at the green/white wire.
Is this what you would expect to find?
Finally, with the distributor on the bench, I put 12 volts across the hall sensor (+ to red/black and - to brown/white). Measuring resistance from the centre pin of the 3-pin-plug to earth, I couldn't get a circuit regardless of the position of the distributor shaft.
Have I done enough to be sure that the hall sensor is the problem?
Thanks
T25 (1983) DF Engine - Leisuredrive conversion – a charmingly retro nightmare.
I carried out the test that bigherb posted:
Remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system.
Remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug.
Switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead.
If you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault.
I got sparks, so the fault seems to be with the hall sensor.
Next I swapped the king lead for a plug lead and earthed the body of the plug (a bit like bigherb's video) and I still got sparks at the spark plug when I scraped the wire along the engine (but now I had an extra hand free!).
Next I reconnected the 3-pin-plug to the distributor and turned the distributor shaft by hand - no sparks this time, so fault still likely to be the hall sensor.
Then I probed the back of the 3-pin-plug (whilst it was still fitted) measuring voltage between each wire and earth and found...
12 volts at the red/black wire (outside pin)
0 volts at the brown/white wire (outside pin)
4.47 volts at the green/white wire (centre pin)
Rotating the distributor made no difference to the 4.47 volts at the green/white wire.
Is this what you would expect to find?
Finally, with the distributor on the bench, I put 12 volts across the hall sensor (+ to red/black and - to brown/white). Measuring resistance from the centre pin of the 3-pin-plug to earth, I couldn't get a circuit regardless of the position of the distributor shaft.
Have I done enough to be sure that the hall sensor is the problem?
Thanks
T25 (1983) DF Engine - Leisuredrive conversion – a charmingly retro nightmare.