Club 80-90 Forums

Well what was going to be a straightforward job of replacing fuel lines has now stopped at first base.

Decided to replace fuel pump pushrod and gaskets first, was leaking from insulator block base.

Removed fuel pump then eased insulator block up and out, was tight, but easy enough.

Unfortunately insulator lock had sheared off, leaving tapered part firmly lodged in hole.

Tried very gently an easiout but stopped as no movement and wanted no debris falling into/onto cam.

Now I'm stuck, has anyone had same problem, if so will be grateful for any advice.

Realistically I know I am looking at fitting an electric fuel pump, which is best to buy and fitting?

I could take a chance and reuse original block as tapered end is in situ and I could place bottom gasket, then install pushrods and then rest of block, making sure pushrod is not binding. Then refit pump.
Bl...y ell!

Chris

I'd get a tap of an appropriate diameter and cut a thread inside the bakerlight then screw a bolt in and use that to pull it out.
grease the tap to catch any bakerlight swarf.

Cheers Paul, am using helicoil tap 8,-mm X1,25 .

So far managed a half dozen threads before rain stopped play. Am very conscious of brittleness of Bakelite,
never worked with it before, so cut and back off every quarter turn.

Rain forecast tomorrow so will let you know how I get on, hopefully next couple of days when drier.

Atb,
Chris

Sunny afternoon!

Went onto 10,- x 1,25 lead tap, two big nuts and load of washers for packing, then slowly
inserted 10,-mm bolt.

Went in far enough to accommodate another washer, back off, continue same, until after checking
each time the taper came out! Woo Hoo!

After 40 odd years in engineering, it's the little things like this which sometimes gives the most pleasure.
Having said that, glad I'm retired, can't imagine coming home after night shift and getting straight on it as I've done so often in the past.

Also checked rod length, mine reads 99,46 , which is only ,54 under spec, so I will reuse.
After 33 years pretty damn good, new/replacements appear to be hit and miss regarding hardness.

Anyway, thanks for replying Paul. Just ordering new insulation block.

Chris.

Replace the push rod too, less that 100mm is too short , there is very little movement in the first place !

freckvan1 wrote: Also checked rod length, mine reads 99,46 , which is only ,54 under spec, so I will reuse.

Bin it ... they cost next to nowt for a proper length new one.

Ian

well done
4mm movement, 0.5mm will be fine but as they are so cheap I agree change it is best.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... etrol.html x 1 off

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... etrol.html x 1 off

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/e ... etrol.html x 2 off

£6.96 less 80-90 discount plus P&P

Ian

Thanks lads for your advice and suggestions regarding push rod length.
As an aside, if in the future the rod needs replacing I take it both gaskets will need renewing also

Unfortunately already ordered insulation block before seeing Ian's and Mocki's posts and had gaskets for some time.

Will order new push rod from Brickwerks later, will be a good excuse to order a few more wish list items to justify postage!

I prefer to keep my van stock, so being able to continue with mechanical pump is great. Also given me a chance to clean up crud on engine around that area. Tomorrow will be replacing fuel lines and filter, so all good.

Atb,
Chris

In my experience the spacer stays put so you only need to do the top gasket

Top gasket is suposed to be different but I never found it for sale seperate from kits but I don't tbink it matters

I bought a new pump last week from Brickwerks, and it came with two gaskets. Both were the 'open' type (bottom of itchy's pic).

However I didn't change the bottom gasket because the bakelite spacer was stuck solid... and I didn't want to risk snapping it lol

Go on, go for it!

You might be lucky and it comes out in one piece!

freckvan1 wrote: You might be lucky

My life doesn't do "lucky". If there's a slight possibility of something going wrong... It'll go wrong

Good luck getting it out. The replacement I got from GSF was tight to fit in and very tight for the rod. Brickwers was a much better fit be careful not to over tighten the nuts on refitting the pump as the insulator splits easily

Sir Brix, never addressed anyone in this manner .
There's a video on YouTube recommending reducing diameter of spigot around and below 2nd hole, approx 10,-, this stops any binding, a file will do.