Club 80-90 Forums

So last year I completed a service on my 1.9 petrol Westy Joker. I was quite pleased it started again after as I'm learning mechanics on the van. This is what I did.

HT leads
New plugs
New air filter
Oil change
New rotor arm
New distributor cap

My question is - what should I do for this year?

I don't imagine the HT leads, Distributor parts need replacing again after 12 months

Give me a list please guys and I'll start learning

Thanks in advance


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I'd do oil and oil filter change and air filter,I do it every year no matter how many miles I do,clean plugs,check fuel lines for splits.sure someone will add to this.

New fuel filter, cheap as chips and worth doing yearly. While you're at it check fuel pipes from to back, feed and return, very thoroughly and renew them if you have any doubts about their condition (or the clips holding them) - not a difficult job at all and one of the best peace-of-mind preventative measures.

The wners manual gives service intervals for other items if you can get a copy but plugs, leads and rotor are definitely good for longer than a year.

The HT stuff is not really a service item but replace when worn/faulty.

The very least is an oil and filter change every year regardless of miles. A "service" enables you to go over everything with a fine tooth comb and lookout for potential failures.

Take a look at something like the Kwik Fit service schedule (not suggesting for one minute to use that shower!) to give you ideas if you don't have the original service book that lists everything needed for major/minor services.

https://www.kwik-fit.com/servicing/info ... my-service" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I tend to go a little overboard but I stretch it over a few days, I silicone grease all rubber door seals, cv boots, track rod end seals in fact anything rubber (just not on your windscreen)
Lithium grease on the hinges,
OG spray on your sliding door runner and gear

Also important to check your brakes, remove rear drums clean with brake cleaner, wear a face mask as you don't want to breath in dust. Check pad wear etc and other normal checks, leaks ovalised drums etc etc
Also the front pads, again check for wear, are the discs binding are your flexi hoses okay.
Whilst the front is jacked up check for side to side or top bottom movement (with wheel on)
Also check the rest of the brake system for signs of leaks

Body work wise have a good crawl around and deal with any corrosion issues ASAP

Oil and filter change,
Fuel filter
Air filter
Check fuel lines
(I do a compression test but not really necessary)
I also remove the carb and give it a good clean, re fit with new gasket

I have altered the time of my Mot so it corresponds with my service schedule so I give it a pre mot check, emissions, lights, tyres, exhaust, seat belts usual stuff
Then it's onto the bodywork, deal with any bubbles quickly. If I get a bubble I will remove the paint down to the metal, clean of any rust, coat with rust treatment, I have then got a tin of rustoleum same paint code that I use to fill it, I don't use filler, I use an artists brush, dab the treated area with one coat, let it dry for a few days, keep building it up one coat at a time until level, then when hardened, wet and dry, paint restorer then Polish. Done this a few years ago bubbles have not reappeared yet.
Then interior, remove front door cards give window mechanism a light greasing, spray door locks with Teflon spray.


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[quote="NicBeeee"]I tend to go a little overboard but I stretch it over a few days, I silicone grease all rubber door seals, cv boots, track rod end seals in fact anything rubber (just not on your windscreen)
Lithium grease on the hinges,
OG spray on your sliding door runner and gear

Also important to check your brakes, remove rear drums clean with brake cleaner, wear a face mask as you don't want to breath in dust. Check pad wear etc and other normal checks, leaks ovalised drums etc etc
Also the front pads, again check for wear, are the discs binding are your flexi hoses okay.
Whilst the front is jacked up check for side to side or top bottom movement (with wheel on)
Also check the rest of the brake system for signs of leaks

Body work wise have a good crawl around and deal with any corrosion issues ASAP

Oil and filter change,
Fuel filter
Air filter
Check fuel lines
(I do a compression test but not really necessary)
I also remove the carb and give it a good clean, re fit with new gasket

I have altered the time of my Mot so it corresponds with my service schedule so I give it a pre mot check, emissions, lights, tyres, exhaust, seat belts usual stuff
Then it's onto the bodywork, deal with any bubbles quickly. If I get a bubble I will remove the paint down to the metal, clean of any rust, coat with rust treatment, I have then got a tin of rustoleum same paint code that I use to fill it, I don't use filler, I use an artists brush, dab the treated area with one coat, let it dry for a few days, keep building it up one coat at a time until level, then when hardened, wet and dry, paint restorer then Polish. Done this a few years ago bubbles have not reappeared yet.
Then interior, remove front door cards give window mechanism a light greasing, spray door locks with Teflon spray.


That's not a service, that's a restoration

What about things like gearbox oil, changing the fluids for the brakes and clutch.

Now that's a list! Thanks all


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Moonrakers wrote:

NicBeeee wrote: Then it's onto the bodywork, deal with any bubbles quickly. If I get a bubble I will remove the paint down to the metal, clean of any rust, coat with rust treatment, I have then got a tin of rustoleum same paint code that I use to fill it, I don't use filler, I use an artists brush, dab the treated area with one coat, let it dry for a few days, keep building it up one coat at a time until level, then when hardened, wet and dry, paint restorer then Polish. Done this a few years ago bubbles have not reappeared yet.

Ioving this advice - thx - but for my van tailgate that'll take me 8 years

Appreciate the service tips tho. Nervous about taking the carb off !


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NicBeeee wrote:I tend to go a little overboard but I stretch it over a few days, I silicone grease all rubber door seals, cv boots, track rod end seals in fact anything rubber (just not on your windscreen)
Lithium grease on the hinges,
OG spray on your sliding door runner and gear

Also important to check your brakes, remove rear drums clean with brake cleaner, wear a face mask as you don't want to breath in dust. Check pad wear etc and other normal checks, leaks ovalised drums etc etc
Also the front pads, again check for wear, are the discs binding are your flexi hoses okay.
Whilst the front is jacked up check for side to side or top bottom movement (with wheel on)
Also check the rest of the brake system for signs of leaks

Body work wise have a good crawl around and deal with any corrosion issues ASAP

Oil and filter change,
Fuel filter
Air filter
Check fuel lines
(I do a compression test but not really necessary)
I also remove the carb and give it a good clean, re fit with new gasket

I have altered the time of my Mot so it corresponds with my service schedule so I give it a pre mot check, emissions, lights, tyres, exhaust, seat belts usual stuff
Then it's onto the bodywork, deal with any bubbles quickly. If I get a bubble I will remove the paint down to the metal, clean of any rust, coat with rust treatment, I have then got a tin of rustoleum same paint code that I use to fill it, I don't use filler, I use an artists brush, dab the treated area with one coat, let it dry for a few days, keep building it up one coat at a time until level, then when hardened, wet and dry, paint restorer then Polish. Done this a few years ago bubbles have not reappeared yet.
Then interior, remove front door cards give window mechanism a light greasing, spray door locks with Teflon spray.


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Can I bring my van to you for a service!

Sure thing, if you could drop it of in June 2017 and pick it up may 2019 I should have it done.
Seriously though it does not take up much time, an hour here an hour there, no need to do it all in one day, just keep a tick sheet, as for the paint bubbles I do it as I leave for work, takes seconds to stick another layer on, soon builds up.

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IndigoSteve wrote:So last year I completed a service on my 1.9 petrol Westy Joker. I was quite pleased it started again after as I'm learning mechanics on the van. This is what I did.

HT leads
New plugs
New air filter
Oil change
New rotor arm
New distributor cap

My question is - what should I do for this year?

I don't imagine the HT leads, Distributor parts need replacing again after 12 months

Give me a list please guys and I'll start learning

Thanks in advance


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Apart from the leads, I change these every year and the oil (as per VW requirement) twice a year regardless of mileage
Brake fluid every two years along with the coolant.

kevtherev wrote:

IndigoSteve wrote:So last year I completed a service on my 1.9 petrol Westy Joker. I was quite pleased it started again after as I'm learning mechanics on the van. This is what I did.

HT leads
New plugs
New air filter
Oil change
New rotor arm
New distributor cap

My question is - what should I do for this year?

I don't imagine the HT leads, Distributor parts need replacing again after 12 months

Give me a list please guys and I'll start learning

Thanks in advance


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Apart from the leads, I change these every year and the oil (as per VW requirement) twice a year regardless of mileage
Brake fluid every two years along with the coolant.

I've changed my dizzy and HT leads every 2 years because.....well, it's cheap and easy I suppose. I just thought it was one of those things that you replaced as a preventative measure.

My advice to any one removing door cards is to hoover out any fluff/dust from the bottom of the void, spray with Dinitrol and then use a fine wire to clear the weep holes. Even with new window seals, I was surprised at how much moisture collects in there, rain and condensation. So many doors rot down at the bottom and I can see why.