Club 80-90 Forums

Any tips? I've tried small mole grips,when they break,do they leak?
Ta.
Ps,I've read the wiki.

Heat the calliper around the bleed nipple, get it as hot as you can, it will take a while I usually heat it for about 5-10 mins with a decent blow torch, when its as hot as you can get it rapidly cool the bleed nipple, I use a soaking wet rag but you can use freeze spray , unless someone has stretched the threads by over tightening it, it should come undone easily.

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Ta,will give it a go!

MGP wrote:Heat the calliper around the bleed nipple, get it as hot as you can, it will take a while I usually heat it for about 5-10 mins with a decent blow torch, when its as hot as you can get it rapidly cool the bleed nipple, I use a soaking wet rag but you can use freeze spray , unless someone has stretched the threads by over tightening it, it should come undone easily.

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Surely that'll melt all the seals in the caliper,I'd try penetrating oil first.

Take the calliper off and grip the nipple in the vice, along with penetrating fluid should have it out.

All,thanks for the advice,Shepster I don't think I can get the nipple in the vice, calliper bits in the way,my daughter bought some super duper Molies to undo the bleed nipples on her car,we will hunt them out!

If there is enough meat left on the nipple try filling a couple of flats on it to gain a purchase,

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Give your nipple a good smack with a hammer first, then get the mole grips on it.
I always smack mine with a hammer even if they're not rounded as it shocks them free and saves you rounding them.
Too late for you but it might stop the nipple shearing off flush with the caliper, if that happens you're screwed.
It won't leak if you shear it but drilling it out will be a nightmare.
Don't use an easyout on it either, chances are you'll shear the easyout and then you can't drill the nipple.
I know, I've been there, it's not a nice place to be.

Evening all,I used some nail pliers to grip the nipple( ouch!)and twisted it off flush with the calliper!!
In a funny way it's helped as the calliper is a bit sticky ( sometimes pulling to the right).
Bob, I once used an " Ezeyout" to get a head bolt out on an Austin 7 ,it broke of course! it took me days to drill it out ( hand drill!).
The van is still useable so I can take my time getting a calliper.

After many many years at this, I always start with molegrips and give a light tap with the hammer once gripped, to shift the nipple before the 7mm spanner even comes out of the toolbox. Always worked for me. I have early calipers on mine and there are two nipples. One is sheared (not by me) so I just bleed via the remaining one. Its also possible to bleed via an undone flexi hose (if you're quick and time it right).

I shudder whenever I hear people say that they use an ordinary spanner on them - use a box spanner with a decent rod that allows you to get a hand on each side, push and pull, then you aren't wringing the thing off with a lopsided force.

Prevention being better than cure, I wrap bleed nipples with a couple of turns of plumbers PTFE tape so they don't seize.

The vans an ex water board one...the right hand side is much more corroded than the left,I can't read the makers name on the right hand calliper, Girling is clear on the left.
I did try box spanner ,hammer and freezer spray.
The hammer is the first tool used here,if that doesn't work a bigger one does!!
The left brake drag is 2.5 ftlb the right is 9 ftlb!
Comments please.

Right drag?

It's just a jump to the left.