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Engine Swap
Posted: 20 Feb 2017, 19:51
by Smosh
Evening all,
I'm about to embark on an engine swap. like for like... well almost. Mine is an early one, and the replacement is a late. So as an amature I thought I may use this to gather everything I need to know in one place!
So.. hit me!
1) I cant find engine mounts on BW!?
2) What do I need to do to make the Late coolant work with the early?
Cheers,
Josh
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 20 Feb 2017, 20:20
by itchyfeet
easiest to keep your early cooling system and just swap the engine which is identical in fit with the exception of another oil switch
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 20 Feb 2017, 21:19
by Smosh
itchyfeet wrote:easiest to keep your early cooling system and just swap the engine which is identical in fit with the exception of another oil switch
Okay cool! (pun intended!

) That sounds easy!
Any good tasks to do whilst the engine is out?
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 04 Mar 2017, 10:40
by RCN
Since you've got the engine out and a huge hole to sit in, get in there and tidy up and wires or hoses that are untidy. Use zip ties to keep together, but not so tight they can't move if slack needed. Clean any connections you can get to, clean the panels and nooks and crannies from any dirt, stones, etc. Have a go at the gearbox and diff., again clean and have a look at condition. When I had mine out I also removed and cleaned the starter connections.
For the new engine now would be the time to fit a stainless steel exhaust too. Did that to mine when it was out and glad I did, as well as new exhaust studs
If nothing else hop in the space, look around to see how things fit and where things are for when they break in the future. Cheers
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 07 Mar 2017, 15:16
by Smosh
RCN wrote:Since you've got the engine out and a huge hole to sit in, get in there and tidy up and wires or hoses that are untidy. Use zip ties to keep together, but not so tight they can't move if slack needed. Clean any connections you can get to, clean the panels and nooks and crannies from any dirt, stones, etc. Have a go at the gearbox and diff., again clean and have a look at condition. When I had mine out I also removed and cleaned the starter connections.
For the new engine now would be the time to fit a stainless steel exhaust too. Did that to mine when it was out and glad I did, as well as new exhaust studs
If nothing else hop in the space, look around to see how things fit and where things are for when they break in the future. Cheers
Good advice thanks! Already has a SS exhaust on!
Best go buy a big pack of cable ties.
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 07 Mar 2017, 15:22
by itchyfeet
easier to change fuel pipes through bulkhead when engine out.
paint rear of bulkhead always rusty behind coolant manufold.
remove clutch slave bolts and replace with stainless, clean and paint slave bracket.
treat all rust , easier to see it with engine out.
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 17 Mar 2017, 12:00
by Smosh
itchyfeet wrote:easier to change fuel pipes through bulkhead when engine out.
paint rear of bulkhead always rusty behind coolant manufold.
remove clutch slave bolts and replace with stainless, clean and paint slave bracket.
treat all rust , easier to see it with engine out.
Thanks! Looking to tackle it this weekend and out getting bits this afternoon - Any chance you know what size those clutch slave bolts are?
Also consumables required?
Oil - 15W40 Mineral Oil 4.5l
Oil filter
Coolant - G12+? 18 litres?
Copper grease for bolts
Teflon grease for anything
Plusgas!
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 17 Mar 2017, 12:23
by itchyfeet
clutch slave M8, say 30mm long, I'd use nylocs, could try this mod to make it easier
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 4#p8154254" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Antifreeze 8 litres neat 16 litres diluted 50 % put it all in neat after flushing ( heater on hot) because you might well have 8 litres left in the system.
Genuine G12 is expensive most of us use a cheaper equivilant.
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 17 Mar 2017, 12:27
by itchyfeet
I have had to remove an engine/ gear box twice due to a stupid schholboy error, dont do the same.
when the engine is seperated from box the clutch release bearing slides forward and off the clips, when you fit, the clips are the wrong side of the fork and clutch won't work.
tie the clutch slave lever up to the bracket then check release bearing is correct, then fit.
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 18 Mar 2017, 18:27
by Smosh
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 18 Mar 2017, 20:50
by multisi
He aint hanging about ,well done mate. I bet you had a few choice words to say when the hoist wheels went onto the gravel .
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 18 Mar 2017, 21:23
by itchyfeet
good work

Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 19 Mar 2017, 08:19
by Smosh
Yep! dragging the engine, on the hoist, through the gravel on my tod, wasnt easy! Dragging the replacement engine over on a pallet was better. But I am feeling stiff this morning! The worst bit though was trying to slide the new engine under the van. Pulling it on the ply was easy, pushing it just didnt work.
I just need to work out the differences between early and late coolant systems now and how to reconfigure mine!
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 19 Mar 2017, 08:24
by itchyfeet
I hope you have got rags in holes, those stones get everywhere.
Re: Engine Swap
Posted: 19 Mar 2017, 09:10
by Smosh
itchyfeet wrote:I hope you have got rags in holes, those stones get everywhere.
Yep everything is bunged up!