Club 80-90 Forums

Being an impatient idiot when testing the temperature sender I put the shorting wire into the wrong terminal and melted the black wire coming out behind relay 43. I'm going to replace it and I'd imagine the ignition switch. How are the wires attached to the multiplug?

crimped

Thanks for that. I didn't think there was enough space.

all the origional connections are crimped, but you may have trouble finding the crimps, if so you may be able to solder onto the old one.

getting the crimp out of the connector housing can be hard too, there are special tools but you can often do it by other means.

unless I misunderstood the question.

Thanks, that's exactly what I was asking. It's crossed my mind that I can take to black wire from the ignition straight to an earth crown by passing the fuse box. Is there any reason not to do so. When I try and start the engine turns but doesn't fire up and the LPG display shuts off so I'm wobering if it could be down to a dodgy earth.

I have a spare ignition switch already and a brand new battery arriving today just in case.

Steady
Black is 12V NOT earth

get some pics up of exactly what you melted

Glad you said that. I found a article explaining automotive wiring colour coding and it said black was earth! Thanks for asking for the pic, when I was thinking about it I remembered I'd left the multiplug out last night. Crimped a new pic of wire to the black, fitted the ignition switch and it fired up. Just need to work out where the grey wire fits in the ignition and what it does.

grey is parking lights, Have you considered looking at wiring diagrams?

Point taken. I find them very confusing having never dealt with electricals before.

best way to learn is when you have a need

Spent ages on the diagrams when I had a problem with ...NS rear light and both parking lights and never got to the bottom of what was the problem, it was narrowed down to be between fuse box and switch but I couldn't see anything wrong. Looking in Haynes now to find ignition switch wiring.

Right still can't see what's wrong with the rear n/s light and both front side lights and it's a matter of time before a bored plod stops me. I think I'm going to have to take the dash out. Is all the wiring from light switch to fuse box easy to inspect once the dash is out?

There's no need to remove the dashboard in order to remove the dash harness.

In contrast to later vehicles, the electrical system on the T3 is really quite easily accessible, and all main harnesses can quite easily to be removed and replaced. For the dash the only bits that need removing are the dash 'pod', central plastic heater cover and the steering column shroud.

Having said that I very much doubt there's much point in doing that to sort your particular issue. Much more likely its a bad earth or corrosion on the bulb contacts.

I've been told that because both the parking lights and rear light are faulty it has to be between fusebox and switch because after the fusebox they're separated. Taken fusebox out all the earths all look good. Changed the crowns last summer. There is a grey and yellow wire unconnected with a spade and a further unconnected yellow wire which has a female connector-any ideas?.


Thanks for the advice mate, I changed all the bulbs, light fuses, cleaned up the earth under the coil and the crowns, Took all the multi plugs and other wires out and replaced them. Hey presto tail lights working, nice bright LEDs from Jed. The only downside is that the replacement rear light holders don't have fog light contacts.

Forget Haynes, use these:

http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/VW_T ... _SP_DG.pdf

http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/VW_T ... ghting.pdf

The latter doc shows the GB-specific dim-dip wiring.