Club 80-90 Forums

Dash is coming out soon, so thought it a good time to change my squeaky heater motor.

Looking on B-Works, and associated items has resistor kit and foam kit...
All here reading this please assume I have never seen the gubbins behind the dash - because I haven't

So, would I be right in thinking foam kit is used to reseal the heater box after opening?
Is the foam likely to need replacing? ( i.e. does it disintegrate when opening? )

I know it's more `general` than `electrical` but this next bit fits here... Are the resistors prone to failing? I don't want to remove the dash, go through all this and have to replace the resistors at a later date. Rather hit it all at once if possible, so need to know if best to get those at the same time and change them out...?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8&t=8s" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For foam replacement, I used the neoperene sheet stuff available in art shops.

Hmmm, Cheers CovKid.

The easiest way for me to decide what the best course of action is to ask 2 questions...

1. Did you change to this to eliminate the resistors as a precaution, or was it because you had a faulty component?
2. Are the resistors prone to failure?

The answer to 2 is no unless people ignore the problem.
Does it work in all the switch positions. If yes the resistors are still working.
People up the fuse value to try and take the problem away which is the last thing you want to do. Just about every car maker uses this method to controler fan speed

Cheers Nicq.

No, it all works OK, it just squeals a bit now and again.
While the dash is coming out I thought I would change it before it seizes up - sod's law says that if I don't, then it will be a few weeks after the dash has been out that it seizes anyway.

Don't forget to grease the wiper parts as well they are prone to drying out.

Once it squeaks, its deffo time to replace the fan. Its not helped by claims that lubing the motor fixes it - it doesn't. It merely shuts it up for a while. A thirty year old blower is a thirty year old motor and they just draw more current as they age, putting stress on associated wiring. The reason I swapped out the resistors is they're a devil to get at once the dash is reinstalled whereas a proper controller which is used in more modern vehicles is much easier to get at and actually cheaper than resistors. It also makes more efficient use of the vehicles electrics.

Nothing wrong with resistors but they do get hot. All that wasted power has to go somewhere. PWM is more controllable and very easy to connect up. I don't advocate PWM with an old motor, but if motor is being swapped out its an option.

nicq wrote:Don't forget to grease the wiper parts as well they are prone to drying out.

Will do mate

CovKid wrote:Once it squeaks, its deffo time to replace the fan. Its not helped by claims that lubing the motor fixes it - it doesn't. It merely shuts it up for a while. A thirty year old blower is a thirty year old motor and they just draw more current as they age, putting stress on associated wiring. The reason I swapped out the resistors is they're a devil to get at once the dash is reinstalled whereas a proper controller which is used in more modern vehicles is much easier to get at and actually cheaper than resistors. It also makes more efficient use of the vehicles electrics.

Nothing wrong with resistors but they do get hot. All that wasted power has to go somewhere. PWM is more controllable and very easy to connect up. I don't advocate PWM with an old motor, but if motor is being swapped out its an option.

Certainly something to think about.
I have spent enough on the van lately but those PWM controllers seem cheap as chips, so it might be something to think consider here.

You can always do it at a later date if funds do not allow. You just need to fond the wire on the switch that does not go through a resister to the motor,

nicq wrote:You can always do it at a later date if funds do not allow. You just need to fond the wire on the switch that does not go through a resister to the motor,

Yes, I was actually thinking the exact same thing...
Watching CovKid's video, it seems I could do it later and just leave the other two wires that go through the resistors in place, as they would be redundant.

The vids mentions running new power from fuse box, but you must also make sure you get one without constant power, thus enabling you to be sure you don't leave it on when leaving the van. Is that all necessary do you think?
Couldn't you just use the original power feed to the circuit so that it only works when the ignition is on? ( As it is currently set up that way anyway. )

I must be missing something here I think
Why the need to run a new feed?

Smiffo wrote: The vids mentions running new power from fuse box, but you must also make sure you get one without constant power, thus enabling you to be sure you don't leave it on when leaving the van. Is that all necessary do you think?

Couldn't you just use the original power feed to the circuit so that it only works when the ignition is on? ( As it is currently set up that way anyway. )

I must be missing something here I think
Why the need to run a new feed?

Resurrecting this thread a bit, I'm asking myself this question too, as I'm in the middle of the job and wiring the pmw. The black/red +feed present already that goes to the speed control switch is convenient and looks in good shape, big enough etc. I'll just use that.... Right? ?

slowcoach wrote:

Smiffo wrote: The vids mentions running new power from fuse box, but you must also make sure you get one without constant power, thus enabling you to be sure you don't leave it on when leaving the van. Is that all necessary do you think?

Couldn't you just use the original power feed to the circuit so that it only works when the ignition is on? ( As it is currently set up that way anyway. )

I must be missing something here I think
Why the need to run a new feed?

Resurrecting this thread a bit, I'm asking myself this question too, as I'm in the middle of the job and wiring the pmw. The black/red +feed present already that goes to the speed control switch is convenient and looks in good shape, big enough etc. I'll just use that.... Right? ?

That's how i did it. I just removed everything from the switch to the motor and swapped it over with the motor controller. I had 4 wires on my controller and a diagram for which went where, very tidy and very easy (which is exactly what i needed for my electrical skills!)
I put a meter across the wires to check i had zero volts when off and all seems fine (so far, touch wood)

Squeeky motor will die soon. mine was squeeking, i took it out to swap it and thought i would test my motor controller on the old one first, it didn't work!! pure chance but that's the point when the motor stuck!!

Hey Smiffo, if you want some practice you can come and help me with my blower motor..

meggles wrote:Hey Smiffo, if you want some practice you can come and help me with my blower motor..

I will make you a deal.
Get yourself `down south` and I will gladly help.

You need only buy me a beer - and not that mincey northern muck.!!