Club 80-90 Forums

Fan bearings are aqueeling like mad, looks like the dash is coming out soon so i can get some oil on then. Can't do it this weekend so know I'll have to live with the aqueeling a next week also

Will c make a list of other little jobs t to do whilst it's out

I would consider just replacing it https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/h ... an-t3.html - at least you will not need to re-visit the depths of the dash to oil it again.

Yep, don't mess about with lubricant. If its the original fan, swap it out while the dash is out. As they age they draw more and more amps just to start up and they never get better. Its telling you its past retirement. You'll also find a new fan goes considerably faster and less taxing on your wiring

Way to much work to pull out just to lubricate, and as for drilling a hole in the front, well, desperate measures etc but it'll be a short-lived solution and you might just as well do the job properly before you have freezing weather and will need to rely on the blower.

You might want to look at my PWM mod as it does away with the blower resistors (in the WIKI and on youtube) and gives you linear control of the blower. That is if we're not talking about rad fan

Totally agree with the above, too much work to have to do it again if it starts to squeek again. Just replace it, you'll also get the chance to tidy up any old or redundant wiring whilst you're in there

Don't forget the other jobs while it's out.
Felts in heater box
Earth crowns
Grease wiper mechanism
Tidy wireing

And remove 30 years worth of electrical bodges and dodgy stereo wiring.
Rats nest and can of worms are 2 phrases you'll become familiar with soon enough.

Don't forget to replenish this whilst in there.

Yes as the others have said swap it out for thirty quid its well worth doing. If a bearing seizes the cab quickly becomes full of billowing smoke which is quite spectacular!

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Don't forget to replenish this whilst in there.

Ha, I should have plenty still on board, haven't let any out yet - Which is a bloomin miracle for me

Take it out of context??????

PWM mod for anyone who wants to go that route:

A couple of rambling videos I did this year showing it in action
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GzJ8N1Rqp8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (pt1)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S24Hty4_bs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (pt2)

My WIKI wiring explanation: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/VW ... ol_Upgrade" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Remember, you need to trace earth wire from blower that goes to earth crown and disconnect it.

You need a 20amp 12v PWM controller with control on a flylead. Between £5 and £10 on average - ebay. Certainly cheaper and easier than messing with resistors. If a resistor goes, dash has to come out again. If controller goes, you just reach up and replace it although theres not much to go wrong with them to be honest, plus they're more efficient. I'm not a big fan of changing things for the sake of it, but this mod is a good one.

How many clips are needed to re-seal the heater motor box?

BW sell them as a single item - I'm guessing at least 4

Not all of them use clips. Some are glued together.

Mine was glued, and is now clipped. Used an ancient beefy (but sharp!) pocket knife to cut off tabs all the way round, and there were clip placements ready molded in to fasten it back together. Think I used 10? (sorry - not taking dash out to check for you!) I think I was one or two short, but it was enough to hold it together. Try getting 12?

Haha! I did a clever thing and checked my previous orders with BW - I did get 10. So get 12, you'll manage with 10, and you won't have to go looking for the two that sproing away into some dark recess.

The other way is to drill through lip and use cable ties.

As two have asked me now via PM, this PWM controller at a bargain £4.99 will be fine but you'll probably need to change potentiometer for one of equal value but with a longer shaft if you want to fit it in same place as original control knob:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-12V-24V-2 ... 1859210753" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Obviously it does mean a change of knob but I quite like the newer one If Chinese terminal symbols are unclear, refer to my first video - should help.